01
FABRIC

This shirt is made from two-fold 200s cotton grown in Egypt's Nile Delta, supplied by the Swiss weaver Alumo. With its 200 yarn count this is the finest cotton that Turnbull & Asser uses. It is silky to the touch, extremely breathable and is exposed to the smallest possible number of chemicals during the weaving process.

02
THE COLLAR

The unfused, hand-made collars are sewn one by one and the yoke, the section of the shirt behind the shoulders, is made from four separate pieces of hand-cut fabric. All shirts are made at the company's own facility in the city of Gloucester, in the West of England.

03
Production

The ties are made in the company's production unit in central London, where 22 in-house staff (assisted by a small team of outworkers), hand cut, sew and stitch the ties. Ninety-five per cent of the silk Turnbull & Asser uses is woven in the UK, with the vast majority coming from Vanners, a weaver in Sudbury in Suffolk.

04
Construction

The ties are hand-slipped, meaning that the silk is sewn to the lining fabric in a way that allows the tie to regain its shape, rather than wrinkle, after repeated knotting and unknotting. Hand-slipping can, as its name suggests, only be done by hand.

05
DURABILITY

Despite the fineness of the cloth the shirt is made to last, thanks to the hexagonal gussets that reinforce the side seams where they open into the tails. The shirt also features "Purl" buttonholes that protect the fabric from the wear of the Australian mother-of-pearl buttons.

Shop The Brand
Photography by Mr Michael Bodiam | Words by Mr Mansel Fletcher
"I'm very fussy. I pay great attention to detail and I stand on my reputation."
Mr Stuart Hamilton, manager, Turnbull & Asser tie manufacturing

Mr Reginald Turnbull began making shirts under his own name in 1885, and was joined in his endeavours by Mr Ernest Asser a decade later. Already based in London's elegant St James's area, the duo opened the company's historic shop on Jermyn Street, a road indelibly associated with shirtmaking, in 1903. In the Twenties the brand also gained a reputation for producing clothes in exotic fabrics, notably moiré (or watered) silk dressing gowns and, during World War II, it created extraordinary velvet boiler suits for Sir Winston Churchill.

It was, however, a considerably more sober selection of items that began the firm's association with James Bond. Turnbull & Asser supplied Sir Sean Connery with shirts and ties for 1962's Dr No - and it's no coincidence that Sir Sean Connery is widely viewed by aficionados as Bond's best-dressed celluloid incarnation. Since then the company has continued to dress actors, including Mr Michael Douglas in Wall Street II, Mr Heath Ledger in The Dark Knight, Mr Johnny Depp in Charlie and the Chocolate Factory and Mr Tom Hardy in the forthcoming Mr John le Carré adaptation, Tinker, Tailor, Soldier, Spy.

Turnbull & Asser, founded in the Victorian age, continues to define a very British style, and the finest old-world dedication to quality. The Prince of Wales granted the firm his warrant in 1982, something the brand still retains 29 years later.

turnbull & asser IN PICTURES


made in england
The company makes all its shirts in its facility in Gloucester, in the West of England
THE CRAFTSMANSHIP
Each of the collars, which are semi-spread in shape, are made individually by hand
The FRAGRANCE
Turnbull & Asser even has its own cologne, produced by Penhaligon's, a British perfumer founded in London in 1870
71-72 jermyn street
The interior of the firm's store on London's Jermyn Street. The building has been home to Turnbull & Asser since 1903
the following
Turnbull & Asser's one-day January sale was a British institution until 1980, when it was finally abandoned. Prospective customers would queue overnight

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