Behind The Brand: Alexander McQueen

July 12, 2011

Constructed from a fine, 95% wool, 5% cashmere material, the jacket has two large patch pockets and is double breasted with thick lapels, making it something of a pea coat/blazer hybrid. Perfect with a shirt, tie and tailored trousers, this jacket works equally well worn unbuttoned over a casual shirt, with jeans.

Sharp tailoring has always been a hallmark of Alexander McQueen. Mr McQueen himself undertook an apprenticeship at Savile Row tailors Anderson & Sheppard, where he gained invaluable experience. Having worked with Mr McQueen for 14 years, Ms Burton is an expert at tailoring and construction, too. "You had to know exactly how a pattern was cut, exactly how a print was laid out, or else you could never go forward," she recalls.

The jacket is largely unstructured, following the line of the shoulder for a natural silhouette. Inside, the jacket is partially lined with a high quality, 50% cotton, 50% rayon material and over time it will conform to the shape of the body. The peak lapels and double-breasted closure bring to mind a traditional officer's coat.

The jacket is made in Europe, in one of the carefully selected workshops used by the brand. Being part of the Gucci Group has enabled Alexander McQueen to work with only the best suppliers and manufacturers. The lapels are sewn, rather than fused, ensuring they will retain their shape and crispness over time.

Jacket, shirt and tie by Alexander McQueen

Photography by Mr Michael Bodiam | Words by Mr Peter Henderson

"The thing I learnt very early on with Lee is that nothing was ever impossible. We push boundaries so much"

Ms Sarah Burton, creative director, Alexander McQueen

When Mr Lee Alexander McQueen graduated from Central Saint Martins college in London in 1992, the legendary stylist and editor Ms Isabella Blow was so impressed by his debut collection that she immediately purchased it in its entirety, and set about promoting the young designer's work. The rest is history. Over the following decade, Mr McQueen swiftly became known as one of the world's most acclaimed designers, with his emotionally charged collections, all executed with the highest levels of quality and craftsmanship, delighting - and at times shocking - his audiences. Mr McQueen was the chief designer at Givenchy between 1996 and 2001, and in 2000 the Gucci Group acquired a majority stake in his label.

Following the death of the designer in 2010, his long-time design assistant and fellow Central Saint Martins graduate, Ms Sarah Burton, who had worked with Mr McQueen since 1996, took up the helm. Ms Burton oversees both the women's and men's collections, which are fresh and innovative while remaining true to the McQueen heritage. The menswear is characterised by immaculate tailoring and construction, with military and historical elements, combined with a distinctly British aesthetic, completing the look.

ALEXANDER MCQUEEN IN PICTURES

THE NEW COLLECTION

A look from Alexander McQueen's autumn/winter 2011 show. The shearling-collar coat will be available soon on MR PORTER

MS SARAH BURTON

Mr Alexander McQueen's creative director continues to lead the label from strength to strength. Earlier this year she received worldwide acclaim for the wedding dress that she designed for Ms Catherine Middleton

THE MCQUEEN LEGACY

Mr Alexander McQueen leaves a rich design legacy, which is currently subject to a major exhibition, Savage Beauty, at the Metropolitan Museum in New York (until 7 August)

THE SKULL MOTIF

Mr Alexander McQueen's famous skull motif appears on clothing and accessories throughout the collection. This silk scarf has become a signature
of the label