01
THE DESIGN

Blending the 1950s Americana of the varsity jacket with the tactile, heritage appeal of a Fair Isle knit, with a pleasingly modern result, this jacket is both a fashion statement and stylish enough (thanks to its grounding in menswear classics) to look good for years to come.

02
THE DETAILS

The jacket is made in Japan, and has cowhide leather sleeves and pocket trimming. The knitted part is 100% virgin wool, while the jacket is three quarters lined with a soft cupro fabric. There are two internal pockets, and thick, ribbed cuffs, collar and waistband.

03
THE PHILOSOPHY

The jacket's tag spells out the philosophy behind Junya Watanabe menswear: "Something Real. Something that has history and that has a traditional shape. Our way of originality. A new feeling for basics."

04
THE SOLES

The rubber soles are supplied by the leading Italian manufacturer Vibram, which specialises in high-performance soles for clients including the military and emergency services. The slip-resistant Begonia Morflex soles used on these boots strike a balance between flexibility and bounce which is ideal for city wear and all but the longest walks.

Photography by Mr Michael Bodiam | Words by Mr Peter Henderson
"When I design menswear, it's important for me to consider where you wear the clothes and what purpose they serve. I love workwear and the American tradition"
Mr Junya Watanabe

Once described as "the most elusive fashion designer in the world", in a rare interview with The Guardian newspaper, Mr Junya Watanabe shuns media attention and has seldom been photographed. Instead, the designer prefers to let his work do the talking. From his techno couture pieces, which blend high-tech fabrics with traditional construction, to his radically futuristic collections, Mr Watanabe's intellectual approach has seen the introduction of new concepts of cut, fabric and styling, in addition to affirming his position as one of the most influential contemporary designers.

Having graduated from the prestigious Bunka Fashion College in Tokyo in 1984, where fellow alumni include Mr Yohji Yamamoto and Mr Kenzo Takada, Mr Watanabe began working for Comme des Garçons in the same year. Under the guidance of the label's founder, Ms Rei Kawakubo, Mr Watanabe held several positions at the firm, before showing his first independent collection - but still part of the Comme des Garçons group - in 1992 ("whatever Junya does, I don't interfere," Ms Kawakubo explains). Menswear followed in 2001, with Mr Watanabe's men's collections less conceptual and more heritage-inspired than his womenswear. "It is important that you have a purpose when you design menswear," Mr Watanabe explains.

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