Founded in 2001 and based in Gothenburg, Nudie specialises in no-nonsense premium jeans, offered in a variety of different fits, fabrications and finishes. Denim is a truly international material, having got its name from the French town of Nîmes, been first turned into jeans in Italy, and earnt a strong association with the US. Nudie adds a distinctly Swedish edge, both through its sleek designs (which also extend to a small range of clothing) and its ethical standards. "One third of all Nudie jeans are made with organic cotton, and one of our most important goals is to increase this figure," Mr Stenberg explains. "We produce all our jeans in Italy, using European, American and Japanese fabrics." The company also invests in fairly traded cotton, and has worked with Amnesty International to raise human rights awareness. "Music and jeans have a history together," Mr Stenberg notes, hinting at Nudie's other commitment, to up-and-coming bands, including Das Pop and Magic Kids, which have both played gigs held at the firm's stores. Famous fans of the brand include Jay-Z and Mr Zac Efron. Asked if you can ever be too old to wear denim, Mr Stenberg replies, "You never get old wearing great jeans."
Words by Mr Peter Henderson
"Jeans are more than just a piece of clothing. They are a passion, and a passion you feed with love every day"
Mr Palle Stenberg, CEO, Nudie Jeans
This season, MR PORTER stocks three fits from Nudie.
Average Joe is the loosest fit, with a straight leg and normal waist and rise (ie, not "high waisted" or "low rise").
Grim Tim is a straight leg slim fit, with a normal waist and rise.
Slim Jim is a straight leg fit, with a normal waist and rise. It is slightly narrower than the Grim Tim fit, but less tapered, and is distinguished by its signature two-needle side seam.
Washed jeans, as the name suggests, have already been washed and treated by the manufacturer, meaning that they do not need to be broken in to soften them or give a distressed, lived-in look. Washed jeans can be laundered from the outset without major changes to their appearance.
Unwashed jeans (also known as dry, rigid or raw) offer a more "authentic" experience as their appearance (and, to an extent, fit) changes as they are worn, as they soften up, fit to the body and break in. "The important thing with unwashed jeans," Mr Stenberg explains, "is not to wash them straight after getting them. They will get better looking if you use them every day, breaking them in." Laundering them too soon will undo some of this process, so dry cleaning or the "no washing" approach (favoured by denim purists) is recommended.