Behind the brand: Richard James

May 31, 2011

The light gray yarn comes from the South African angora goat and is here offered in its finest, summer kid version. The cloth was woven in England by renowned mill Taylor & Lodge, which has occupied its Rashcliffe Mills factory in Huddersfield, on the edge of the Yorkshire Moors, since its founding in 1883.

Mr James' suits feature "natural shoulders", which he developed exclusively for his jackets. These employ as slim a pad as possible and use only natural fibres. Light roping on the sleeve-head makes the overall line significantly sharper.

Although the suit jacket features a nipped waist, its cut is generous enough for most body shapes. This means that the jacket's shape appears more pronounced than it actually is - a slimming illusion created by using high side vents. "High arm holes allow for maximum movement whilst making you aware of what you are wearing so that you stand straight," adds Mr James.

The fabric used for this suit is composed of 40 per cent wool and an unusually high 60 per cent mohair. The mohair makes the material cool to the touch, bestowing the cloth with a crisp, dry feel and slight lustre. Astonishingly crease-resistant, this suit is perfect for formal summer frolics, and "looks great against a bride's ivory dress at the altar," notes Mr James.

Mr James always recommends flat-fronted suit trousers, which he believes creates a slimming effect. The leg shape tapers gently to a 22 cm bottom, thereby gently lengthening the silhouette.

Suit, shirt and tie by Richard James

Photography by Mr Matthew Donaldson | Words by Mr Benjamin Seidler

"We've made our suits as flattering as possible. The side and breast pockets are all angled to draw the eye to the narrowest part of the waist. This suit has side adjustors since a belt would cut the figure in half. It's all suit and very neat"

Mr Richard James, founder, Richard James

Mr James started his bespoke tailoring business on London's Savile Row in 1992. He had no backing and only £10,000, but by blowing a fresh breeze of modernity onto the legendary street with his slimmer-cut suits, innovative take on traditional high-quality fabrics and brighter aesthetic, Mr James soon had a hit on his hands. "At the time, the big, baggy suits of high fashion brands were what people were wearing head-to-toe," recalls Mr James. "I wanted to go back to something classic and English. We brought back small waists and higher arm holes and fitted cuts. Good tailoring, for us, was about wearing something discreet, not about noticing a label."

RICHARD JAMES IN PICTURES

The Row

Savile Row remains at the apex of luxury tailoring around the world. The Japanese word for suit is saburo, a derivation of the street's name

The Space

Mr James changed the look and feel of Savile Row with a colourful yet streamlined shop that was more seductive than stuffy

The Fans

Mr James has dressed some of the world's most stylish men, including Mr Daniel Craig, Lord Linley and Mr Robert Downey Jr. Here the musician Labrinth enlivens a Richard James navy suit with a pop of pink