A great fabric, a great cut and first-class construction count for nothing if a suit doesn't fit. Unfortunately there's nothing innate about knowing when a suit fits (although if the trousers fall down, or won't do up, that's a clue) so we went to Brioni, the Italian tailoring brand famous for its handmade clothes, to ask Mr Antonio Pipitone what he looks for in a suit when he's judging whether or not it's right. He ran us through the mental checklist he uses when trying on suits.
SOME COMMON MISTAKES...
This term refers to the single most common problem - having trousers that are too long. The key rule is this: they should break once above the front of the shoe - any more and they're too long
One of the first things that aficionados look for in a jacket is whether its collar adheres to the shirt collar, and how well the two elements align. Mind the gap
A jacket that's too large in the waist will lack shape, making the wearer look bigger than he really is. However, wearing a jacket that's too tight and pulls around the waist will also make you look fat
An over-sized jacket, with shoulders that extend beyond the wearer's shoulders, will make you look like a 1930s gangster if the shoulders are structured, and a boy in his father's suit if they sag.
Although we understand that there are regional differences at play here, jacket sleeves aren't meant to reach your knuckles, because if they do they make a man look like a nightclub bouncer