Stylepedia

Mr Porter's Glossary of Men's Style

A way of weaving cloth, usually cotton, which results in a honeycomb appearance and soft feel.

This accessories label takes its cue from history, inspired by luxury travel and the detail and craftsmanship that traditionally went into luggage. Based in Montreal, brothers Messrs Dexter and Byron Peart set out to bring back artisan quality to travel. The result is supple leather travel wallets, technology cases and bags with minimal detailing and in neutral, easy colours. Read more about WANT Les Essentiels de la Vie

Messrs Dexter and Byron Peart talk about buying the perfect bag
Waxed Cotton

This impermeable material, which was first used by seafarers in Scotland, is woven from cotton thread that has been impregnated with a waterproof wax. The material was initially used for the sails on ships (they caught the wind more efficiently when they were waxed), before the sailors themselves started wearing the fabric. Luckily, fish oil is no longer used as the waterproofing agent...

The thin strip of leather that runs along the outside of a shoe. The welt connects the upper part of the shoe, the inseam (the strip of leather that touches your foot) and the outsole (the part that touches the street). The reason we bring up this bit of terminology is that you can gauge the quality and potential longevity of a shoe based upon the welt. When buying bench-made or mass-produced shoes, you'll be choosing between shoes with a Goodyear Welt (commonly found in US and English brands) and the Blake method (commonly found in Italian shoes).

Put simply, the Goodyear method produces a sturdier shoe that lasts longer and is more resistant to water. The downside is that it can look and feel heavier, particularly when compared with shoes finished using the Blake. And, for those who like to know the origins of footwear superheroes, Goodyear Welts are named after Mr Charles Goodyear, the son of the rubber magnate, who invented a machine for finishing shoes. The Blake method is named for Mr Lyman Reed Blake, an American inventor who patented the machine to accomplish this in 1856.

White Mountaineering

"One, design. Two, utility. Three, technology" is the motto of White Mountaineering, a Tokyo-based, outdoors-inspired line designed by Mr Yosuke Aizawa, a former assistant to Mr Junya Watanabe. Since 2006 the brand has produced rugged, heritage-inspired collections with a strong emphasis on fabrics, construction and technical features

A large and simple check pattern found on suit fabrics.

The pointy-toed, vaguely Warlockian-looking boots worn by The Beatles and countless other bands whose name begins with "the".

Shorn from sheep, this material is the starting point for many suit and sweater fabrics. Two of the most common wools that you'll encounter when shopping are lamb's wool (soft - it is shorn from sheep no older than seven months) and merino (the last stop on the Softness Express before cashmere; it comes from merino sheep and is lovely to touch).

Woolrich Woolen Mills

Mr John Rich established his first wool factory in 1830 in Pennsylvania, initially producing clothes to protect railroad construction workers against the elements. Since then, Woolrich has grown into a comprehensive outerwear brand, with as much emphasis on style as on practicality. Every piece of the Woolrich Woolen Mills collection is manufactured and hand-finished in the US, and under the creative directorship of Mr Mark McNairy, the label draws upon Woolrich's heritage.

A term used to describe designers' idealised visions of workers' costumes. This term can refer to chambray shirts (chambray is more comfortable and lighter weight than denim), khaki trousers, work boots, messenger bags and donkey jackets (the unlined jackets sometimes worn by municipal workers).

Worsted is the most common form of wool suit fabric and can take many different forms. At root it means the yarn in the cloth has been combed to lay the fibres flat, giving a smooth appearance and finish - contrast this with fuzzy flannel.

Woven Leather

A technique of weaving together thin strips of leather. It is most closely associated with Bottega Veneta, for the label's famous intrecciato goods.