Something is afoot in the fashion world. “At the recent shows, I was really struck by how few sneakers there were,” reports Lauren Cochrane, senior fashion writer at The Guardian. “The footwear seemed to be focused on brogues, loafers and Derby shoes. Basically, nothing with an air bubble or a colour. And as big and chunky as possible.”

“Sneakers will always have a place on the streets, but the variety of trending styles seems less prevalent than it once was,” agrees Rachel O-Williams, Assistant Personal Shopper at MR PORTER. “We’re seeing trends within the real-shoes-and-boots sphere. Loafers in particular are much more commonplace than they ever were.”

Elsewhere, the recent trend for approach shoes has cleared the way for serious outdoor styles. “Hiking boots are also more popular,” O-Williams says. “I’ve seen many vintage-style hiking boots, giving designers a new space to experiment with leather textures and finishes.”

This shift to “proper” shoes will hit some of us harder than others. “I own more than 300 sneakers, so I hate to admit this, but I understand wanting to wear something else occasionally,” says Adam Cheung, style writer at British GQ. “A leather shoe can make the jeans and jumper you wear all the time feel different – and you don’t need an invitation or a dress code to justify it. There’s still loads happening in sneakers. I just think more guys are realising they can love them and put on other shoes, too.”

Cheung points to the Tyrolean shoe as one to watch. “I think they’re going to blow up,” he says. “It’s a chunky lace-up with a rounded toe, a thick rubber sole and a raised seam wrapping around the front. If you’ve spent years wearing chunky sneakers, a slim dress shoe can feel a bit weird under your jeans. Tyroleans give you that same substantial shape, just in leather or suede. They also make sense for anyone who’s been wearing loafers and wants something a little sturdier for autumn. You get to try something different without having to rethink everything above your ankles.”

Where would you wear them? “Work, dinner, the pub – anywhere you’d normally wear sneakers, really,” Cheung says. “I’d go for loose jeans or cords, a big knit and a roomy blouson, but you could wear them with a suit if you wanted to. Something relaxed with wider trousers would work particularly well. I like that they’re a little beefy. You can dress them up without looking like you’ve put on your special occasion shoes.” Mr P., Bottega Veneta and Polo Ralph Lauren’s are the ones to seek at MR PORTER, he says.

Boat shoes, too, are another style that’s staying afloat. “Boat shoes are having a moment and, importantly, they’re not going anywhere,” O-Williams says. “What makes them so appealing right now is their versatility. Wear them casually with denim and an overshirt or smarten things up with tailored trousers and a relaxed blazer. They’re the perfect transitional shoe, effortlessly moving between the formal and the informal.”

O-Williams is a fan of Timberland’s recent collaboration with Jacquemus. “It takes the DNA of a classic boat shoe and gives it a distinctly contemporary twist, balancing traditional craftsmanship with a playful, modern sensibility,” she says.

“I think they’ve got plenty more to give, especially as guys get used to wearing them with baggy jeans rather than the tight chinos we subjected them to last time,” Cheung says of the boat shoe. “I’d go for suede or a chunkier sole. You get some of the ease of a loafer, but the laces and stitching give you a bit more to play with. Boat ownership remains entirely optional.”

Other leather shoes can also hold their own, if you know how to style them. “I think both loafers and Derbies look great with vintage-wash straight-leg jeans,” Cochrane says. “These could be slightly short; I even think it might be a time to see no socks. Or with thin socks in a bright colour (I like red). The ‘proper’-ness of the shoes work well with non-proper outfits as much as tailoring. Either way, there should be a bit of a relaxed feel. The shoes need to subvert their traditional environs rather than lean into them.”

“I’ve noticed a few people wearing sporty socks when opting for white socks with Derbies,” says Kit Swann, MR PORTER’s Fashion Editor – with some trepidation. “For me, this is the wrong way to go about it. Leave the sports socks in the locker room and get yourself a proper pair of white socks.”