THE JOURNAL

Denim is unique in the menswear world in that it is both perennially de rigueur and subject to the winds of fashion. That is to say, a pair of jeans will always be cool, but the shape, finish and fit of a pair deemed “current” is likely to change. Just look at skinny jeans: once ubiquitous, they have since been usurped by wider cuts, but whispers of a skinny renaissance are in the air…
That said, there are some bankers. Simple, straight-leg jeans in a mid-blue stone wash are a fairly safe bet. And you can never really go wrong with a classic, short-body denim jacket either. There are alternatives, too – and if you’re unsure what they might be, consult our guide to summer 2025 denim.
01. The denim shorts

Despite their simplicity, jean shorts (or “jorts”, if you must) have the power to inspire sartorial fear in scores of men. Perhaps they are just too casual – and, in truth, they are. But they are still worth a look this summer, especially if they’re on the larger side.
“I am a big advocate for denim shorts,” says style director and consultant Zak Maoui, who espouses their versatility. “I think denim Bermudas [a fuller cut that finishes at the knee, from brands such as OrSlow, Nudie Jeans and Carhartt WIP] are great for the city.” Maoui says he usually wears his with long socks and sneakers or classic penny loafers.
Alternatively, you can go short on the jorts, but they might be best reserved for your holidays. “Ultra-short denim cut-offs belong in the piping-hot sun with a tank top,” Maoui says. And they should be taken at “face value”, he says, suggesting that the jorts’ informality is their strength. “Don’t pair them with a blazer, because they’re one of the more casual items out there and will just look daft.”
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02. White denim

For the same reason white suits are hard to countenance, white denim can be a daunting proposition. Just one ill-handled glass of red wine and they’re ruined. But the risk is worth the reward, because white denim is able to evoke a sense of Riviera chic that blue denim can only dream of.
“White jeans come with a devil-may-care attitude, which I imagine puts some men off,” says the model, actor and white-denim advocate André Larnyoh. “Like you’re a wealthy European who’s meant to be sipping Aperol in the south of France. But… it’s summer, so why shouldn’t you dress for where you aspire to be?”
Larnyoh appreciates the adaptability of white denim, which can be dressed up or down. For easy style, he suggests “untucked poplin or Oxford shirts, slouchy cotton knits and a lightweight raincoat or blouson,” he says. “The beautiful thing about white denim is that it’s so neutral that it goes with absolutely any colour. I’d even be tempted to try a faded denim western-style shirt.”
If you want to smarten white denim up, go right ahead – but keep the tailoring soft and slouchy. “A slubby linen double-breasted jacket worn open over a tee or Henley would work a dream,” Lanyoh says.
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03. The denim jacket

Photograph by Getty Images
A summer-style mainstay, the humble denim jacket is a workhorse in the face of iffy weather conditions and surprisingly chilly evenings. This year, the best are by the likes of AGOLDE and The Row, which stick to the short-body, neat-fitting shape established when the original truckers emerged a century or so ago. They are simple garments, but the shape can be hard to crack for some guys.
“The key to a good fit is making sure the denim jacket fits neatly across the shoulders in the same way a tailored jacket would,” says the stylist Gareth Scourfield. “And it should always sit just on the waistband. Not overly cropped or too long.” For inspiration on nailing the classic denim jacket, he points to the one worn by Brad Pitt in 2019’s Once Upon A Time… In Hollywood, which is, “proportionally perfect”.
Conversely, there is a trend for oversized shapes right now – and many guys are even pairing big DJs with matching, indigo denim jorts. However, Scourfield suggests caution. “Longer lengths on the sleeves and body might work for the current mood in tailoring,” he says, but “it doesn't translate well in the heavier and often stiffer denim cotton fabrics”. For the ultimate classic, “look for a mid-wash blue denim for a more lived-in ‘vintage’ feel – or go with a super-dark plain indigo,” he adds.
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04. The straight-leg jeans

“I never buy skinny-fitting denim and much prefer a wider straight-leg fit,” Maoui says. And he’s not alone – because the straight leg seems to have all but usurped other cuts of denim. Sure, the skinny persists, and the taper is always there for those looking for that more tailored look. But, right now, the best everyday jeans are cut straight, courtesy of brands such as Nudie Jeans, Gucci’s Lido line and our very own Mr P.
“Being less restrictive, a straight cut is suitable for most body shapes,” Scourfield says. “Having more room around the thighs and down through the leg makes them a good choice for both tall guys and athletic bodies.” The straight fit, he adds, is also endlessly age-appropriate, even if you do have gym-hewn calves to show off. Scourfield suggests pairing straight-cut denim with low-key sneakers, boxy white tees and simple jersey sweats.
“With menswear becoming a little more generous in cuts and looser silhouettes, straight-cut denim complements longer-line blazers or lightweight chore jackets,” Scourfield says. “They also look good with an untucked camp-collar summer shirt.”
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