THE JOURNAL

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A solid collection of shirts is the cornerstone of any decent wardrobe. Menswear has skewed extra-casual over the past decade, but the shirt has survived – not only as the foundation of any formal dress code, but also as a reliable staple that’s easy to wear in any number of contexts across the smart-casual spectrum. Layered under a sweater, over a T-shirt or worn with a suit, there’s perhaps no item that you’ll get more mileage out of. And, of course, they come in all stripes – including striped. Here, the definitive list of the five shirt types that every man should own.
01. The cotton shirt


A button-up cotton shirt is what you can confidently call an unassailable menswear classic without sounding like you spend all your time on the r/malefashionadvice subreddit (hey, no judgement here). Which is why it’s at the top of this list.
Refined yet low-key, it’s become something of a sartorial mainstay that you can layer under a blazer to a meeting, or style it untucked with chinos or denim on the weekend. White and sky blue are the easiest go-tos in terms of colour and will realistically yield the most wear. And while they come in all kinds of cotton weaves, an Oxford cloth button-down – known as the OCBD among menswear nerds, ahem – is arguably the most classic and versatile.
For a touch of pattern, look to vertically striped styles, which make you look that tiny bit taller. Narrow pinstripes are great for a refined office-appropriate look (see: AMI PARIS), while bold, wider stripes (sometimes known as butcher’s stripes because they recall the stripes used on a butcher’s apron) add more flair to a get-up.
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02. The short-sleeved shirt


Warmer climates don’t require you to drop formal codes altogether. The button-up’s more relaxed cousin, the short-sleeved shirt, is summer’s most reliable companion.
Camp-collar styles are laid-back, yet refined, allowing you to layer yours over a tank top or wear it solo. Consider Cherry Los Angeles’ vintage bowling-shirt style to inject some personality into your outfit, or opt for textured designs in crochet, seersucker or terry to add a little seasonally appropriate depth.
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03. The linen shirt

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If you’re about to embark on some sunny adventure, linen should be a major player in your suitcase. The relaxed and versatile linen shirt pairs effortlessly with tailored shorts, linen trousers or swim trunks – it’s difficult to go wrong.
Lightweight, breathable and still elegant after being crumpled in your hand luggage, it will look the part whether you’re on a Mediterranean terrace or spending a day at sea. The Italians make some of the best ones (of course they do) – behold Etro’s impeccably cut white version. Mr P.’s new SS25 collection is also well worth a browse.
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04. The denim shirt


A denim shirt can be a real wardrobe workhorse. With its undeniably rugged charm, it’s versatile enough to be worn under a winter sweater when it’s colder (the textures look great together), but will work just as well on its own.
Looking for something low-key but luxe enough for date night? SAINT LAURENT’s got you covered with this old-school design, embroidered with the brand’s logo.
One more styling tip: if you’re feeling adventurous and want to channel your inner cowboy, a denim shirt looks great when paired with a bandana tied around your neck. Yeehaw.
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05. The checked shirt

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Despite its broad-ranging associations – from lumberjacks to 1990s grunge to 2010s hipsters – the flannel shirt is singular in its ability to add a rugged cool to your off-duty looks. In fact, a flannel shirt can be one of the most reliable pieces in your wardrobe, especially in the cooler months. Polo Ralph Lauren is particularly good at making them, blending that vintage American-workwear vibe with some contemporary polish.
As for styling, they often look best when worn unbuttoned over a casual tee as an overshirt, with equally rugged trousers, such as blue denim jeans or cargo pants. Come autumn, they’ll look great under a shearling jacket, too.
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