THE JOURNAL
Almost all men’s clothing can be separated into two categories: the things you want and the things you need. Underwear, you need. Crew-neck T-shirts and jeans, you need. But a bright red cable-knit Shetland wool sweater from Drake’s or a brushed cotton workwear set from mfpen? Those you want. And that counts, too. The trick is to build a wardrobe of pieces that somehow sits in the middle of the two camps – clothes that cover the basics but offer that little something extra. Here, then, are 10 elite pieces we think every man should have.
If you live in the northern part of the northern hemisphere – like us at the MR PORTER HQ – an overcoat will be the outermost part of your outfit for a good part of the year. It’s also the piece of clothing that’ll say something about you, before you do. Getting it right is paramount. For everyday use, you’ll want something that transcends trends and works with most knits and trousers you already own. Dries Van Noten makes one of our seasonal favourites, but if you’re up for a change, try heritage checks from Aimé Leon Dore or Dunhill.
The blazer remains one of the most stylish and versatile items in a man’s wardrobe. So, it’s not at all surprising if picking the right one – one that should serve most purposes and occasions – sounds like a challenge. “Whether double- or single-breasted, a soft construction and mid-weight fabric give you the freedom to style it year-round,” says Sophie Genn, MR PORTER Buyer. Everyone from storied Italian houses such as Canali to British institutions including Drake’s prove that the blazer works just as well with suit trousers and a tie, as it does with jeans and a chambray shirt. No small feat when trying to navigate today’s smart-casual dress codes.
As far as extra layers go, you really can’t go wrong with a knitted sweater. But you can also go a lot more right. Elevated fabrics such as cashmere offer better temperature regulation, not to mention a softer handle. Crew-neck pullovers, as the name suggest, can be easily pulled on over most base layers, while knitted polo shirts offer a smart point of difference. Go-to brands such as The Elder Statesman have turned knitwear into a signature move, so look out for standout patterns or details.
Whether you have to wear one every day, or you’re just updating your tailoring essentials for the odd wedding and formal event, a suit has the potential to be the most reliable piece in your wardrobe. You can’t miss with a classic, single-breasted black one from TOM FORD. Or opt for a brown double-breasted style by Kaptain Sunshine, which can be easily broken up with colour-coordinated cord trousers.
The spectrum of leather jackets spans far and wide, but we’ll narrow down the options to bikers, bombers and blousons, which will never go out of style. The classic biker exemplifies rugged sophistication. Meanwhile, blousons and bombers are somewhat of a cross-over – and most designers posed their own take on the classic this season. “Current iterations of the bomber jacket often take their cues from decades’ worth of history and references, proving an ability to withstand the test of time,” says Joss Long, MR PORTER’s Senior Buyer. “In particular, styles that are collared and elevated in luxe leathers or suedes are even easier to incorporate into your daily wardrobe.”
In the current era of the men’s bag, a tatty old promo tote won’t do. And for guys about town, there are a few options for day-to-day use. For quality-assured craftsmanship, you can’t beat a leather backpack from the likes of TOM FORD, which will wear its years well. For the weekend, a tote or messenger bag does the job nicely – take these cult pieces from Bottega Veneta and Métier.
The go-to shoe for many of us, although everyone has their own preference when it comes to brands and styles. Do you want something with sporting pedigree or designer je ne sais quoi? For some, Dries Van Noten has the low-key sneaker sewn up, while New Balance has put in the hard miles when it comes to the retro sportswear front. Either way, a discrete pair means you won’t put a foot wrong.
When it comes to shirts, casual can mean relaxed, but it certainly shouldn’t be careless. Which is to say that something that looks thrown on doesn’t have to be literally thrown on. In short, rethink your shirt. From classic button-ups to plaid (perhaps in a luxurious cashmere), take this staple up a notch with brands such as Charvet, Auralee and Canali.
Right now, classic penny loafers are right on the money. “Recent iterations with slimmer profiles, almond-toe shapes and additional character details, such as ruching or elevated materials, have allowed them to exist equally as a casual everyday style to pair with jeans and a T-shirt, as well as a more interesting formal option,” Genn says. George Cleverley may still be one of the best sources for the traditional shape, but don’t overlook Gucci’s horsebit styles, and SAINT LAURENT’s popular take on the shape.