THE JOURNAL
From left: Mr Paul Mescal, 44th London Critics’ Circle Film Awards, London, 4 February 2024. Photograph by Mr Karwai Tang/Getty Images. Mr Cillian Murphy, 29th Annual Critics Choice Awards, Santa Monica, 14 January 2024. Photograph by Mr Steve Granitz/Getty Images. Mr Timothée Chalamet, 81st Annual Golden Globe Awards, Beverley Hills, 7 January 2024. Photograph by Mr Jon Kopaloff/Getty Images. Mr Dominic Sessa, BAFTA Film Awards, London, 18 February 2024. Photograph by Mr Matt Baron/Shutterstock. Mr Jeremy Allen White, 81st Annual Golden Globe Awards, Beverley Hills, 7 January 2024. Photograph by Mr Jon Kopaloff/Getty Images
As the designer and black enthusiast Mr Yohji Yamamoto once noted, “Black is modest and arrogant at the same time. Black is lazy and easy, but mysterious.” Yes, black can be an easy colour. But all-black is intricate. All-black needs nuance, it needs details, it needs texture, it needs dimension – otherwise you will end up looking flat and, dare we say, boring.
All-black requires advanced-level styling. And showing off a bit of skin is exactly what you need to break up a monochromatic look. It’s cool, it’s sexy and it offers a more laid-back vibe compared to a buttoned-up shirt. This awards season, sheer and open-chested elements have come to the fore, adding a playful flare to the sea of black fits that dominate the red carpet. So, what lessons can we learn from the all-black and bare-chested men of the big screen?
See Mr Paul Mescal here, who has opted for a double-breasted tux with a bare chest, leaving room for his notorious chain (a nod his breakout role in Normal People) to shine. This small touch keeps the look fresh and interesting. However, if you can’t dare to fully bare, but you still want to display a bit of cleavage, Mr Dominic Sessa gave us the best option at this year’s Baftas. A soft, open-buttoned shirt underneath your tux will make the look feel cooler and more nonchalant. We love that Sessa styled his rich velvet tux with a pop of red, too – the accent colour adds some cohesive dimension (the boxy statement shoulders of his jacket would look empty without a shirt underneath) and perfectly contrasts the heavier fabric of the tux. The slim flared trousers and the pendant necklace also add to the louche 1970s rocker energy.
Similarly, Mr Timothée Chalamet, who was dripped out in CELINE HOMME at the Golden Globes, also styled his open chest with a chunky necklace, bringing in another nice touch of sparkle with his sequined embellished jacket. The statement jacket was the star of the show, and anything other than an open black shirt would have taken away from the piece and potentially made the look too stuffy. Chalamet – who frequently steps out in Mr Hedi Slimane’s signature skinny-trouser silhouette – paired his embellished jacket with slim trousers, which further focused the eye on the top half of the ensemble and also let the jacket breathe.
Mr Cillian Murphy – who has been collecting awards for his role in Oppenheimer (do we think he’s got the Oscar in the bag?) – is also a big fan of the dark and monochrome. So much so that in a recent interview with Mr Josh Horowitz, he revealed that his iPhone wallpaper is black as night: “Recently, I’ve just gone totally minimalist black. Even all the apps, they’re all just black.”
“A sheer shirt adds texture and intrigue to a monochrome look”
Often seen in his emo attire, it doesn’t surprise us that once again Murphy picked his favourite colour to wear to the Critics Choice Awards. And although he didn’t take that award home, he won best-dressed of the night, at least in our eyes. Head-to-toe in ZEGNA, the actor wore a silky shirt, unbuttoned just at the top, with a loosely tied pussy bow, and paired it with pinstripe high-waisted pants and a matching single-breasted jacket. It’s sexy, yet subtle – not as daring as the other looks, but still interesting. It’s giving Mr Edgar Allan Poe meets Bruce Wayne in the best way.
If you still want to show off some skin, but don’t want to commit to a bare chest, Mr Jeremy Allen White’s got the best of both worlds. The star of The Bear went for a sheer shirt at this year’s Golden Globes, which gave just enough sultry and playful energy to his suit without it being overpowering. A sheer shirt adds a bit of texture and intrigue to a monochrome look, making it clear that you’re wearing a thought-out outfit, but without it looking like you’re trying too hard. And that’s the outfit of a (Golden Globe) winner right there.
The people featured in this story are not associated with and do not endorse MR PORTER or the products shown