A video from comedian Ali Woods says everything about the symbolism of the overshirt in 2026. A parody of how straight men dress, it dubs the overshirt the perfect solution for “fashion that women accept and men don’t notice”. If that is hardly inspiring to buy into as a trend, perhaps it’s time to rethink this workaday item and – as is customary on the internet these days – give it some flowers.

This hardworking item can be found at brands ranging from Stone Island, SAINT LAURENT, Sunspel and Mr P., across fabrics including suede, plaid and organic cotton. Farid Hounkponou, Personal Shopper at MR PORTER, describes it as “one of the most versatile pieces you can invest in with no regret. You can wear it buttoned up as the outer layer or open over a T-shirt – that versatility is really the whole point of it,” he says.

For Hounkponou, the way to go beyond Woods’ cliche is simpler than you might think: just change up the fabric and reconsider what you’re wearing underneath. “It makes such a difference the moment you switch to different texture and start layering it unexpectedly over a turtleneck instead of a plain tee,” Hounkponou says. “Or underneath a longer coat so it peeks out at the cuff and hem. I always say: do not be afraid of pattern. A paisley or check overshirt is a much easier way into print than people think, because the shirt-jacket shape keeps it grounded.”

An Aimé Leon Dore shirt with multiple patterns might be an option, or denim design from rag & bone. Zegna’s designs are ones to consider, according to Stephen Doig, men’s style editor at The Telegraph. “They have really elevated the overshirt game,” he says. “[Artistic director] Alessandro Sartori sees it as an alternative to the suit jacket and has rendered them in luxury materials and interesting details.”

Sunspel has also made the overshirt as a central part of its offering – whether in linen or plaid. “We see it as part of a wider wardrobe of modern essentials,” says Edward Finney, the brand’s design director. “It has the same qualities as a well-made T-shirt, polo, knit or chore jacket. It is not defined by a season or a trend, which is usually the sign of a true classic.”

Another way to bring more excitement to the overshirt is to think about celebrities and their recent adoption of it – often with a white tee underneath. See Jacob Elordi hard launching his relationship with Kendall Jenner in Japan in a business-ready shirt or Harry Styles out and about with Zoë Kravitz in a classic canvas overshirt. Alternatively, wearing one over a band T-shirt, as Pedro Pascal might, is a way to add something of an easy rock’n’roll swagger.

Doig suggests other unexpected combinations and styling tricks. “[Wear them with] short shorts to balance the upper boxiness,” he says. “I also like a bit of a shrugged-on effect, loose and almost off the shoulders.”

This everyday item can do some heavy lifting in the evening, too. “To dress it up slightly, an overshirt over a fine merino crew neck, with tailored trousers and loafers, gets you most of the way to smart-casual without ever putting a jacket on,” Hounkponou says. “Left open over a simple outfit, it also does a lot of work as a stand in for a blazer on days when a full jacket feels like too much.”

“Worn with tailored trousers, it makes the outfit feel more relaxed,” Finney says. “It is a very easy way to bring a look together without making it feel too dressed.”

The perhaps unexpected outcome of all of your effort with an overshirt? Fellow men might well begin to notice this new take on the item. Women? Maybe they’ll even move from acceptance to full-on approval. Now is the time to find out.