THE JOURNAL
From left: Alexander Skarsgård at a screening of Pillion on 18 October 2025 in London, England. Photograph by Dave Benett/WireImage. Nicholas Hoult at a photocall for Superman at the Corinthia Hotel London on 3 July 2025 in London, England. Photograph by Tristan Fewings/Getty Images. Pedro Pascal at the premiere of The Last of Us on 24 March 2025 in Hollywood, California. Photograph by Axelle/Bauer-Griffin/Getty Images
I have a confession that I’m happy to admit with nary a wince of shame. Tallying up the contents of my closet, I count 48 pieces of leather outerwear. That includes top, over, wrap, pea, car, duffel, anorak, down and trench coats, in skins that have been waxed, quilted, buffed, fused, sueded, pebbled, burnished and distressed. Add to that an array of motorcycle, bomber, flight, racer, trucker, puffer and CPO jackets. Most of my collection is black, but colour extends to charcoal, chocolate, saddle, caramel, russet, oxblood and mustard.
You’re probably wondering how can one possibly wear them all? Variety and not enough vanity. What better reason to take advantage of 365 days in the year? There is no fabric that is more sensual, ego-boosting, blatantly testosterone-y and age-defyingly sexy than leather.
Leather has always been and will forever be butch. Greek armies boiled and hardened the skins into armour. Roman gladiators sculpted hides into breastplates and sandals to wear during chariot races. The Celts went into battle in leather tunics and lined their shields with it. Leather’s popularity in more modern times began when a surplus of “bomber” jackets – the Shetland-lined horsehide or goatskin garments designed to combat the freezing temperatures fighter pilots faced sitting in the open cockpits of early aircraft – first appeared in army/navy stores after WWI. Not only were the jackets inexpensive, they radiated an aura of daredevil, “good guy” heroism.
But the silhouette that transformed leather into the essential foundation of every “bad boy” regulation uniform was born in 1928, when the Schott brothers introduced the black, asymmetrically zipped-up Perfecto motorcycle jacket (named after Irving Schott’s favourite cigar). The Hollister riot of 1947, with scenes of drunken brawls soon published in Life magazine, followed by a Perfecto-clad Marlon Brando straddling a Triumph Thunderbird in 1953’s The Wild One cemented this rebel image.
Not that you need to be a rebel to wear one. Whatever the whims of fashion, leather has never lost its tactile magnetism. And if you get the right one, it will end up a core component of your wardrobe for life. But, as with any big investment, there are a few things to consider first.
01. Think about the impression you want to make
James Dean in Rebel Without A Cause (1955). Photograph by TCD/Prod.DB/Alamy
Is your goal to look tough and commanding? Then a bulky silhouette with lots of hardware and full-grain leather is the way to go – try a classic motorcycle or flight jacket. If insouciant elegance is what you’re aiming for, stick to lighter-weight jackets, such as a zip-up racer, a collarless bomber jacket without the knit hem, or a silk or unlined topcoat with a minimal skin seams and detail. For something grab-and-go casual, try on jackets with patch packets and button closures, like a CPO or delivery cut. For added warmth, choose a shearling lining or a leather down parka.
02. Weight, give and durability
Steve McQueen on the set of The Great Escape, 1963. Photograph by Photo 12/Alamy
Leather jackets are usually heavier than wool and cotton poplin counterparts. (The Perfecto weighs over 5lbs. I have a waxed Calvin Klein trench that tips the scale at 8lbs, but my sleek racer weighs less than a Brunello Cucinelli cashmere crew neck.) The only way to know how much weight you’re comfortable carrying is to try it on.
It should also be noted that leather doesn’t exactly give, certainly not at first. And while you’re not going to wear it to Bikram yoga, you need to adjust to more restricted movement. The jacket or coat should fit exactly at your shoulder break and come high up your armhole (it will give eventually). You should be able to bring your elbows parallel to your chest.
While leather is tough, it is not indestructible. However, you can clean virtually any spill with a damp cloth; salt and grease come out with white vinegar. And though untended leather can mildew, it is easily remedied with mild dish soap and water. However, should you ever get caught in a downpour, never dry a leather garment over direct heat or a radiator. Have patience and let it air-dry. Leather should be conditioned every six months. When properly cared for, a leather jacket should last you decades.
Note: if the leather you have chosen is suede, know that it is as fragile as it is gorgeous. Eat nothing, drink less. Rubbing up against anything from cinema seats to bodies on the train will eventually take its toll – enjoy it while it lasts.
03. The fit
Elvis Presley on his NBC TV comeback show filmed in Burbank, California, June 1968. Photograph by Pictorial Press Ltd/Alamy
Start by going one size down from what you’re used to. Leather will stretch slightly as it ages so start with a snug fit to the body. You’ll get used to it the moment somebody asks when you got into shape.
Coats can go as long as your wallet will allow. But though some cuts can extend below the hips, the most flattering jackets are often cropped just above the waist. If you aren’t used to that, here’s a nudge in that direction – it’s a more youthful silhouette.
04. What to wear with it
Henry Winkler as Arthur “Fonzie” Fonzarelli in Happy Days, 1974. Photograph by Everett Collection Inc/Alamy
Unless you’ve got a Harley-Davidson or Ducati in the driveway, fight the urge to bring Brando back to life. In fact, leather looks freshest when you choose furnishings against type: a motorcross jacket over a crisp white shirt and black silk tie is so smart, as is a chocolate-brown bomber jacket atop a cabled Donegal crew neck. In fact, try treating your leather jacket like a sport jacket.
Denim and leather were made for each other. However, because most jackets are cropped short, low-slung jeans are not a good match. A natural waist or high-waisted closure is a better choice. Resist the wide-legged trousers that are currently in heavy rotation. Slim and straight-leg trousers are a much better match for leather as they create a longer, leaner line.
05. A note about leather trousers
Freddie Mercury performs at Sports Arena in San Diego, California, 5 July 1980. Photograph by David Tan/Shinko Music/Getty Images
Should your newfound passion extend below the waist, leather trousers are back big time (thanks to Anthony Vacarello at SAINT LAURENT). If Y2K means nothing to you, your options are almost limitless. If you are older, however, you can still turn heads provided you take these two pieces of advice to heart: your leather trousers must fit like second skin. Either have them custom made or find a tailor who is adept at leather. Check there’s no bagging at the knees or drooping in the butt. They should nearly cling to the hamstrings, with only enough width at the bottom to slide a boot under. While you don’t have to look like Lenny Kravitz to pull them off, if you are not comfortable with this, don’t go there.
Finally, avoid pairing your leather trousers with your leather jacket. It’s overkill. You will look far sexier if you pair your rocking trousers with other more familiar elements of your wardrobe.