THE JOURNAL
This is a safe space. Can I say something? I’ll take the silence as confirmation that I may go ahead… I utterly loathe media that entertains and promotes the notion that sneakers are edging – stepping, even – ever closer to becoming outmoded. It’s nonsense, typically born from conservative menswear-heads unable to fathom the idea that a world they’re not attuned to is a) important and b) here to stay. (Breathe; breathe.)
Sure, running shoes, like all things, experience waves of increased popularity, but please note that sneaker subcultures have maintained since at least the 1980s, when Nike first set foot on the basketball court. Ever since, a community has been built on and fostered by the stories that sneakers can tell – accounts of technological feats, sports triumphs, travel, collaboration, pop-culture phenomena, personal journeys and more. Sneakers are of cultural significance. They are totems of developments in style and technology, accessible to all.
For those looking to put their best foot forward, here are the most prominent sneaker trends of the year so far.
01. 1970s sleek
The low-profile kicks ubiquitous in the 1970s have made a resurgence, resulting in big bucks for adidas Originals and Nike. The former has recently flogged countless Sambas, as well as a lot of SL72s, thanks to influential British-Caribbean designer Grace Wales Bonner shining a spotlight on these understated silhouettes. The latter has been pushing a slew of its OG kicks to afford individuality, a top pick being the LD-1000.
Current and upcoming collections point to the trend’s growth and endurance. Superstars and sequinned Sambas appear in Wales Bonner’s SS25 collection. The former silhouette has also been reworked by Pharrell Williams, whose style often foreshadows upcoming trends. Meanwhile, footwear in other coveted luxury collections resemble early runners. And the likes of LOEWE, Maison Margiela and Dries Van Noten have cult hits on their hands. Or, er, feet.
MR PORTER Buyer, Sammy Skipper, confirms that the popularity of this retro silhouette shows no sign of stopping. “The most prevalent trend for 2025 will be low profile,” he says. “It will transcend across every type of brand, from sportswear to designer.”
02. Blurred lines
A recent highlight for us crep collectors was the 1906L, a sneaker-loafer that emerged from New Balance’s Warrington office last year. The smart-casual shoe ties in with current trends of neo-prep and corpcore.
Skipper suggests that the “explosion” of versions bursting into stores this year indicates that “the micro trend will continue”.
My advice: take heed. My other advice: if “directional” isn’t really your thing, look to the traditional brands that are crafting slip-on sneakers using the same techniques they apply to formal footwear. Brunello Cuccinelli, Christan Louboutin and ZEGNA offer polished, office-appropriate versions.
03. The time warp
“The vintage tech trend has been around for a while now, but the next move in this space is the melding of vintage tech silhouettes with new technology,” Skipper says. The latest silhouettes to come from Oakley Factory – characterised by an integrated exoskeleton, a forward-thinking innovation for the brand – back up Skipper’s claim. The collection offers futuristic takes on a 1990s hiking form.
Where eras coalesce, surface areas tend to multiply – thus, this trend will lead into the resurgence of the big steppers. Balenciaga is, as ever, ahead of the curve with its 10XL silhouette, while the likes of Salomon, Golden Goose and ON are locked in an arms race of high-tech hardware for your feet.
04. Think pink
One of the biggest takeaways of the AW25 runway shows was that pink is set to be the colour du jour. And the sneaker makers all received the memo.
Impending hype drops from Nike, Salomon and their peers are doused in hues named “dusted clay”, “fairy tale” and “atomic pink”. General releases – from the New Balance 860v2 to the adidas BRMD – are also suddenly cropping up in similar shades.
Some attribute the comeback to pure 2000s nostalgia. However, we could blame the dragged-out impact of Wicked and the Glinda effect. It’s gonna be pop-u-lar!
05. Big birthdays for big shoes
Two of the most seminal sneaker silhouettes of the past century are celebrating big birthdays this year: that’s the Nike Dunk (40!) and the Nike Air Max 95 (30!). As a result, 1980s and 1990s kicks are hard to avoid right now. And we say dip a toe into this wave of trainer throwbacks.
Embrace this revival of original design elements, the return of beloved colourways and special-edition packaging commemorating the occasions. Fellow sneakerheads, this is turning into quite the year.