THE JOURNAL
James Dean in the 1950s. Robert Redford in the 1970s. Michael B Jordan last year. The shearling jacket is outerwear for those who like their cool factor with a side of sophistication. This is baked into the design. Whether it’s the aviator and bomber styles of Loro Piana and CELINE or the longer coats of BODE and Brunello Cucinelli, it has the kind of blue-chip pedigree that other outerwear can only envy.
While shearling – another name for sheepskin, of course – has been used to keep humans warm for thousands of years, shearling jackets first became popular in the 1940s, when they were worn by pilots in WWII, then in the 1950s when the hero cemented itself as a post-war ideal of masculinity. The American Airforce’s B-3 style – brown, with shearling collar – dates back to the 1930s, but remains a model for a lot of what shearling jackets look like today.
Of course, not all shearling jacket wearers are heroic pilots. Those of a certain vintage will remember others who took to the design – think Del Boy from 1980s sitcom Only Fools And Horses or John Motson, the beloved football commentator who famously broadcast from a snowy pitch in 1990 while wearing shearling. While his commentary was peerless, Motty probably isn’t up there in the style icon list.
So, how to wear a shearling jacket now in a way that avoids the commentator look and stays chic? “Wear it in an authentic way,” says Stephen Doig, men’s style editor at The Telegraph. “Look at Ralph Lauren and Robert Redford for example. It’s classic, rustic Americana that’s natural to them.”
MR PORTER’s Style Director Benedict Browne also references Redford. “It’s inherently masculine thanks to the many depictions in cinema – the late Robert Redford in [1969 movie] Downhill Racer springs to mind,” he says. “Because of that, it’s cemented itself as a classic.”
A classic that still manages to charm now – nearly 100 years after those first B-3s took to the skies. Here’s how to channel Redford the next time you head out the door.
01. The colour is part of its charm
“The traditional tan with cream shearling is super versatile and will always look timeless with light blue jeans and a flannel shirt beneath for that classic, Americana look,” Browne says. In a way, that means the classic shearling jacket, like those by Polo Ralph Lauren, Eleventy and TOM FORD, picks its own colour scheme – something that makes dressing well and warm on a winter morning almost effortless.
Of course, there are some shearlings that explore different palettes, like Moncler’s light grey Jumeaux or rag & bone’s faded back Trent. “Going monochromatic with a dark navy or black shearling bomber jacket is a slick, cool and modern way to wear shearling,” Browne says.
02. Snug, remodelled as cool
Shearling could be considered nature’s duvet – you could think of it as a pre-puffer puffer. As such, the recommendation is to lean into the snugness of the material rather than play with contrast.
“I’d steer clear of evening wear or corporate attire with them,” Doig says. “[Shearling jackets] are decidedly weekend and outdoorsy. Après-ski calls for the enveloping warmth of shearling. Just add gluhwein and a crackling fire.”
Of course, they work for more everyday scenarios, too – meaning different takes on shearling’s snugness are up for grabs. One option, Doig says, is “embracing the donnish appeal with some love-worn denim, perhaps cord trousers, a neutral knit or plaid shirt and some serious boots”. Alternatively, he says, “I’m all for a shearling with some selvedge denim for a streetwear twist to keep things contemporary.”
03. Consider this an investment piece
The perennially classic status of a shearling jacket means it should last a long time – and the premium material means it is what’s known as a “big” purchase. As such, it’s worth taking your time to find the right one for you, your lifestyle and your wardrobe. Pay attention to fit, for example. “I’d make sure [a buyer has] really considered sizing and ensuring that there’s enough room to layer beneath,” Browne says.
Quality is worth its weight here – almost literally. “It’s important to look for proper shearling that’s been ethically made, without a hint of anything synthetic,” Doig says.
“You want some weight to it, to ensure it’s legit,” Browne agrees. “Cheap shearling often feels synthetic and rough, and it’s super thin to the point of being pointless. Shearling is a performance material that’s always kept mankind warm in freezing conditions and it has to be thick and heavy in order to do that.”
Once you have your jacket, be sure to look after it. “Shearling can be tricky to get stains out of, so if you do spill something, make sure to blot the material or get it to a specialist dry-cleaner,” Browne says. “I’d also say don’t lend it to a mate – they’re beautiful things that shouldn’t be trusted in other people’s hands.” You have been warned.