THE JOURNAL
The clocks have gone back, the mercury is set to drop further and whether you’ve got enough layer on will easily be front and centre of your mind soon. A winter coat is likely to be the most expensive item in your wardrobe – and is therefore something that requires a proper amount of consideration. It needs to protect you against the elements, sure. But it should also be of sufficient quality that it will last you more than a few winters, as well as look like something you’ll still be glad to reach for five years from now.
Luckily for you, the digital shelves at MR PORTER are practically creaking with what we can safely say are some of the best-looking winter coats in the world. What, you’re only just thinking about which style to wear this year? Here’s our guide to the classic styles to look out for – and the details worth of note.
01. The belted overcoat
Richard Gere in American Gigolo, dressed in a billowy belted camel-hair polo coat by the late, great Giorgio Armani, is one of the references in the great canon of modern menswear. And for good reason: a belted coat is one of the most stylish pieces of outerwear a man can put on. It feels both as relaxed as a dressing gown and as smart as a suit, not to mention one of the only items of clothing that can truly be described as insouciant. The belt transforms the silhouette: cinch it tightly for more definition or knot it loosely for a casual drape. No surprise that Burberry makes some of the best, but you can also find some excellent options at ssstein and TOTEME, which recently launched its men’s line.
02. The balmacaan
Not, in fact, the title of a Yorgos Lanthimos film, the balmacaan is actually a genre of coat that takes its name from a Scottish estate not far from Loch Ness (where it supposedly first appeared, like a mythical creature, back in the 1800s). Single-breasted and with rounded raglan shoulders that lend it a bit of unruffled, billowy elegance, balmacaans are typically cut in weatherproof fabric such as tweed or gabardine for taking on the elements. More casual than double-breasted styles, a balmacaan will look as good with jeans and beaten-up sneakers as it will with tailored trousers and polished Derby shoes.
03. The double-breasted overcoat
Borrowing from military dress codes and defined by its overlapping front flaps (handy for keeping the wind out), the double-breasted overcoat adds a sniff of Scarface-style sprezzatura to a look. More importantly, it has what all great coats should have: drama and gravitas. Functioning as two coats in one, it turns into a completely different look when worn open or closed. There are a lot of double-breasted options to choose from this season – see CELINE, mfpen, Brunello Cucinelli and Mr P. for some of the most stylish.
04. The heritage checked coat
Heritage checks have made a confident return to the runways over the past few seasons, signalling a move towards something smarter. From glen plaid and houndstooth to herringbone and gun-club check, these old-money patterns and textures may nod to Savile Row classicism, but they are now iconic enough not to feel old-fashioned or stuffy. The trend also means a fair number of coats in checked fabrics are now hitting the shelves. (This one from Maison Margiela is a handsome example as any.)
05. The shearling coat
Shearling is the cosiest of all coats, borrowing its power from sheep’s wool. The quality of the wool and its natural durability can also make a great shearling coat gaspingly expensive – though one from TOM FORD or this from Mr P., for example, can easily help you through a lifetime of cold weather.
06. The peacoat
The shorter and boxier cousin of the double-breasted overcoat, the peacoat was originally designed for seafaring types who needed to keep out the chill of the elements but still be able to move their legs around freely when they were tying ropes, scrubbing decks or hoisting sails. You know, sailorly duties. Dark navy wool (such as this from Valstar) is the classic choice for a peacoat but, nowadays, brands such as Herno are pushing the envelope with padded stretch-shell versions.
The patterns
Glen plaid (Prince of Wales check): a woven pattern popularised by Edward VIII, featuring small and large checks layered together with a subtle multi-yarn depth
Windowpane check: a clean, minimal pattern defined by widely spaced thin lines that resemble the panes of a window
Tartan: a traditional Scottish pattern featuring horizontal and vertical bands of multiple colours intersecting at right angles to create a rich, multi-hued grid
Gingham: a classic checkerboard pattern, traditionally formed from alternating coloured and white squares
Estate tweeds/country checks: multi-toned, criss-crossing woven patterns originally designed in the 19th century for Scottish (and British) country estates
Deconstructed/non-Euclidean checks: modern designer interpretations (seen from brands such as Dries Van Noten) that distort, bleed or patch together skewed check and camouflage lines
Herringbone: a classic broken-twill weave that creates a distinctive V-shaped zigzag pattern resembling the skeleton of a herring fish
Houndstooth: a classic duotone textile pattern featuring broken checks with four-pointed edges that look like small dog teeth
The collars
Notch lapel: the standard tailored collar, with a notch where the collar meets the lapel
Peak lapel: points upward; sharper and more formal, common on double-breasted coats
Shawl collar: one continuous rolled curve, with no notch – soft and relaxed
Convertible collar: this gives some flexibility – it can be worn open or buttoned up to the neck
Funnel or stand collar: rises high around the neck with no fold-over
The details
Set-in sleeve: tailored and structured
Raglan sleeve: the seam runs diagonally to the collar – these are more relaxed and make the coat easier to layer
Turn-up cuffs: folded back, often on a polo coat
Storm cuffs: an inner ribbed sleeve that seals against drafts, usually found on parkas
Single/double vent: one or two slits across the side that facilitate movement
Box pleat or inverted pleat: creates extra room across the back for easier movement
Storm flap: a covering placket over the zip or buttons
Gun flap: a reinforced flap on the shoulder or chest, typical of trench coats
Epaulettes: decorative shoulder straps borrowed from military coats and jackets
Canvassed: a supporting fabric interlining (the “canvas”) is placed between the outer fabric and the lining, and moulds to your body shape over time
Half-canvassed: the canvas only runs from the shoulder down through the chest and lapels
Bound seams: neat inside edges that prevent fraying
Taped or sealed seams: waterproof strips applied over the inner stitching, often found on technical coats
Of course, buying the right coat is only half the job. A good one is an investment, and it will only repay you if you look after it. Our guide to caring for your coats and jackets has five simple tips for keeping your outerwear in good nick, so it’s still looking sharp when you pull it out again next winter.