Roman numerals are more closely associated with Cartier than perhaps any other watch brand. From the secret signature hidden within the number seven to the clever way it skeletonises its dials, the Roman numeral is a fundamental ingredient of Cartier design. Nowhere is it more classic than on a Tank, as the numerals stretch and slant around the rectangular dial.

The blocky, sans-serif Roman numerals used here at 12, three, six and nine are not your traditional example, but Chopard has made good use of their similarity to the baton markers in between. As applied numerals – ie, three-dimensional pieces of metal attached to the dial – they have an imperious, substantial character.

Sometimes the Roman numerals can be stretched so thin that they practically resemble simple baton hour markers, as on this Frederique Constant. The elongated form is a good match for the ultra-classical moon-phase dial, knurled crown and elegantly curved case.

Straddling the divide between the sports watch and the mannered world of Cartier, Montblanc’s recently redesigned Star Legacy juxtaposes stencil-shaped applied numerals with the subtle radial pattern engraved on the dial, which ripples out from the brand’s star-shaped logo at six o’clock.

Baume & Mercier needs only two numerals on the dial of its new Riviera automatic, the most overtly sporting design in the model’s line-up, with its rubberised bezel and oversized hands. They float above the blue sapphire dial like pontoons on a lake. Inside is the brand’s Baumatic movement, which has a five-day power reserve.