Words by Mr David Hellqvist
Like with most aspects of menswear, finding the perfect tuxedo is all about details - but let's not forget the fit, fabric and colour. "I like the tuxedo; it's a uniform. Let's think of it as a classic 'little black dress' for men," says Mr Jonny Johansson, Acne's creative director.
Mr Johansson knows what he's talking about - he's spent months developing an evening wear capsule collection in collaboration with MR PORTER. For Acne, such partnerships are part of their DNA; it's how they evolve, learn and develop. "The collection was designed as a complete evening wardrobe, but one where they all work as separate pieces. Being Swedish, everything we do has to be functional!" says Mr Johansson.
The collection was designed as a complete evening wardrobe, but one that works as separate pieces. Being Swedish, everything has to be functional!
When it came to the direction of the interpretation, Mr Johansson and Mr Toby Bateman, MR PORTER's Buying Director, settled on a collection comprising classic tuxedo shapes in wool and velvet accompanied by bespoke jacquard fabrics and silks. And true to Acne's knack for turning a conventional idea on its head, Mr Johansson even included a T-shirt in the collection, which is available as separates. Other highlights include the wine-red double-breasted velvet jacket and a one-button black wool jacket, both adorned with satin lapels, and a pair of patent leather loafers.
Constructing a suit is an elaborate process where the designer has to merge the fabric with the body and its movements. But when tailoring a tuxedo, sartorial finesse and elegance have to be added. It's in the spirit of this quest for the ultimate experience in formal evening wear that the 14-piece collection has been created: "I would use the word 'elegant' to describe the tuxedo," says Mr Johansson. Here, native Swede Mr Robert Konjic models the key looks from this new collection.