What’s Hot Right Now
Off-duty looks to kick off the year in style – introducing our favourite new-season pieces
If this round-up of some of the best pieces from our favourite collections is anything to go by, 2018 promises to be a bumper year for menswear. First, there are trends galore that cover a whole spectrum of styles, from modern takes on traditional tailoring to bright colours and totally topical Hawaiian shirts. And some of the greatest hits of recent years remain with us, having been refined to stay relevant. For example, the sports luxe look – track pants that you would wear to the pub, sweats you’d sport in a restaurant – has never been better and continues to take casualwear into something infinitely more elevated.
Labels such as Saint Laurent, Maison Margiela and Dries Van Noten are at the top of their game, producing pieces that are pin-sharp, luxurious and somehow extremely wearable, while Tom Ford, Brunello Cucinelli and Gucci are producing investment pieces that are going to grace your wardrobe for years to come. So whether you are feeling the need for some high-octane rock ’n’ roll romance, some classic styling, or an all-round image overhaul, we’ve made sure we have something every man will want here at the dawn of the new season.
Probably the biggest trend in menswear over the past few years has been the inexorable advance of sportswear as everyday wear as styles once restricted to the gym and the playing field have moved into the mainstream. Maison Margiela has always been at the forefront of reinvention and is brilliant at elevating standard menswear pieces, such as these striking red side-striped sweatpants, into something rather special. Twinned with a deconstructed short-sleeved panelled shirt and chunky 1980s-inspired boots, the look is at once effortless, not to mention cool.
Since the departure of Mr Hedi Slimane, Saint Laurent designer Mr Anthony Vaccarello has consolidated the label’s reputation as the place to find a luxury take on the classic Parisian rock ’n’ roll style that is eternally hip. This Saint Laurent leather biker jacket is destined to be a long-term favourite, with the distressing around the seams and pockets creating a patina that makes it look like you have already worn it to at least three gigs by The xx. Continuing the label’s back-to-black aesthetic, the shark-print shirt is a moody take on a Hawaiian shirt while the faded black skinny jeans worn low on the hips toughen things up.
In the few short years since Mr Pierre Mahéo launched Officine Generale, the brand has become known for its laid-back Parisian style and European take on American workwear. This black suede bomber with cuffed sleeves is destined to become an everyday favourite and is easily dressed up for a more polished look. Teaming it with a short-sleeved shirt with contrasting piping gives it a roguish Riviera twist. Mr Mahéo is obsessed with quality and this luxurious jersey T-shirt is a great example of just that – and proof that not all tees are created equal. Superbly comfortable, here it is seen in pink, the colour that has been dragged out of the closet over recent seasons to become a modern masculine staple.
Mr Mike Amiri’s collections for his eponymous brand are inspired by memories of the Californian grunge and goth scenes he enjoyed growing up in Los Angeles, reinvented in premium fabrics. Here a tie-dyed multi-coloured shirt with a frayed bottom is worn over a skate-inspired goth T-shirt with a skeleton hand motif and hyper-distressed skinny black jeans. In homage to the label’s roots in Americana, the look is then given a collegiate jock twist with a classic silk varsity-style baseball jacket, a piece that never goes out of fashion and is interpreted here in silk with leather stripes and contrast ribbing.
Dries Van Noten
Dries Van Noten Philip Beige Trousers With Turn-Up Coming soon
One of the key looks right now has been described as dadcore, a development on the normcore trend of recent years but specific to the working man. This is a style that takes deliberately low-key pieces and subtly subverts them, creating a stylish look that is discreet and easy to wear. But in this manifestation, it reinvents clothes that your father might have worn, making it hip to be what was once square. Few brands do this better than Dries Van Noten (Balenciaga deserves a nod, too) and here a knitted patterned zip-up cardigan is worn with relaxed-cut beige trousers, which are given a twist by being cut short to reveal a flash of ankle above wedge-soled black Derby-style shoes. Wear the trousers on the waist rather than the hips and eschew socks to contemporise.
Season after season, Mr Tom Ford has proved himself to be one of MR PORTER’s most popular designers by adhering to a simple philosophy – everything he does he ensures is the very best. From the impeccable cut to the indulgent fabrics, he knows that quality is always in style and never has to shout to be noticed. Here he takes a simple shearling jacket and elevates it to another level in butter-soft suede lined with luxurious sheepskin. The metal popper studs are immaculate and the generous patch pockets are both contemporary and timeless.
From his base in a restored medieval village high above the Umbrian capital of Perugia, Mr Brunello Cucinelli has helped to revolutionise the way men dress with his trademark take on luxury weekend wear. His rules of engagement are simple – take the best traditions of Italian tailoring and peerless construction and marry these with casual workwear items for a look that is the best of both worlds. Cargo trousers are key to the collection, and this pair are cut so well they can be worn with a blazer and tie or, as can be seen here, with a simple cotton bomber. The collarless shirt has a very fine pinstripe running through it – a big trend in menswear for 2018. Keep an eye out for the shoe collection, again a combination of Italian tradition and contemporary design.
Ms Miuccia Prada is another master of dadcore, having perfected the style long before the expression was even coined last year. She has always relied on technical fabrics to ensure a look is anything but traditional. Here the inspiration is the 1950s American golfer, with the perfect lightweight blouson worn over a maroon knitted polo with monochrome stripe detailing – and stripes are a key look with lots of brands right now. Prada is also famous for its reinvention of classic men’s footwear, mixing traditional styles with detailing inspired by sportswear to create the perfect fusion of opposites. Again, trousers are worn high and cut short. (Prada never forgets the details, so check out the ankle zips.) The black nylon belt bag is a Prada staple, discreet but instantly recognisable, and a standout this spring.
The surf is definitely up in 2018 and the Hawaiian shirt is going to be a key look in every conceivable combination of colour and pattern. Gucci has an unrivalled reputation for its floral prints so Mr Alessandro Michele’s take on the classic is a tropical garden of lilies and orchids on silk twill. Wear it loose and untucked to allow yourself to enjoy the feel of it moving against your skin and keeping you cool whatever the temperature. With a favourite pair of jeans (ideally cropped and frayed) and you will be all set for fun times in sunnier climes.