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The Trends

The Men’s Trends To Know For Autumn/Winter 2018

This season’s outdoors-inspired looks take a stylish yet sensible approach to the demands of winter

The fashion world isn’t always celebrated for its commitment to the practical demands of life, or, to be more specific, the weather. In fact, it can often seem from the general hoo-ha of runway shows and designer collections that the industry likes to revel in its own anarchic irrelevance when it comes to offering up the right clothes for the right time of year. Shorts for winter? Sure, why not? Suede and cashmere for spring? Well, how hot can it really get, eh?

What a relief – and surprise – then, that one of the overriding themes of the AW18 season is a rather sensible one: that is, a fascination with the aesthetics of outdoor gear. Yes, that’s right, it might sound completely ridiculous, but instead of urging you to invest in lacy shirts and backless loafers this September to February, designers are proposing things like anoraks, zip-up tops, and waterproof trousers. Has a concerned mother picked up the phone, and somehow got through to them all? Or is this just a happy continuation of the streetwear aesthetic that seems to be setting the style world alight at the moment?

Of course, you should feel entirely free to draw your own conclusions – we at MR PORTER are never didactic, after all, are we? – but while you do, let us put some of the relevant evidence in front of you. Take, for example, the Japanese designer Mr Junya Watanabe, who filled his AW18 show with the kind of tough, reflective-striped outerwear that you might normally see on a building site, and collaborated with technical adventure brands including The North Face, Karrimor and Canada Goose. Or consider this season’s offerings from Mr Lucas Ossendrijver at Lanvin – which combined blanket coats with a Pacific Northwestern feel with popover parkas reimagined in tailoring fabrics and retro fleece tops with campsite-appropriate geometric prints.

Not every development in fashion occurs on the runway – but if you needed any further evidence of how much the outdoor thing is taking off, you could do worse than observe how many stylish men are currently stomping about with Patagonia tote bagsT-shirts and shell jackets in thoroughly urban locations across the globe.

So, in short, if there’s one piece of general style advice we can give you this winter, it’s to dress like you’re about to scale Everest, even if, in reality, you’re just popping across the road to get some hummus and crisps. If you’re looking for more granular directions though, please read on, and discover our notes on this season’s most compelling additional trends.

Workwear

We’re not talking office-appropriate here. No, this is the kind of clothing you might wear to do proper, hands-on things: whittling; carving; chopping. You know, real work. Think chore jackets, wool flannels, plaid, denim. And also hi-vis, Gore-Tex, canvas and thick-rubber-soled shoes. The modern workplace is, clearly, diverse, at least if designers such as Stüssy, Battenwear, Aspesi and Yuketen are anything to go by.

How to wear it

Workwear is already part of most men’s day-to-day casual wardrobe, so this one’s easy. Swap your blazer for a chore jacket. Pick a pair of wide-leg jeans. Top it off with some boots. Volunteer to help out around the house. Ha, just kidding.

Try these

  • rag & bone Colour-Block Suede-Trimmed Waxed-Cotton Chore Jacket

  • Red Wing Shoes 2930 Ice Cutter Leather Boots



Technical fabrics

  • Off-White Coat Coming soon
    Off-White Gore-Tex Zip-Up Jacket Coming soon
    Heron Preston x Carhartt Oversized T-Shirt Coming soon
    Off-White Gore-Tex Trousers Coming soon

Anyone who’s been waiting for a good reason to stock up on items rendered in high-performance fabrics, we hate to tell you this, but there’s always been a good reason: they tend to offer many functional benefits. But if you’ve been waiting for a frivolous reason, now there’s also one of those, too: the fashion gods have finally deemed such textiles aesthetically pleasing, and something to brag about, to boot. See how Off-White’s Mr Virgil Abloh has produced a pair of tracksuit bottoms with “Gore-Tex” written down the front. And see how wonderfully brands such as Stone Island Shadow Project and Ten C have marshalled garment R&D to produce some spectacularly eye-catching iridescent colours for your outerwear this winter.

How to wear it

There are brands like Arc’teryx Veilance and And Wander that incorproate tech fabrics into all parts of the wardrobe, but for most people, the best way to wear this trend is to invest in a simple shell bomber or denim jacket. If you’re more on the classic side, you might want to try a quilted blazer from Ermenegildo Zegna or Brunello Cucinelli. If you’re into the streetwear thing, take your pick from Off-White, ALYXHeron Preston and more.

Try these

  • Arc'teryx Veilance Monitor 3L GORE-TEX Hooded Down Coat

  • 1017 ALYX 9SM Webbing-Trimmed Shell and Mesh Harness Bag



Brown

Yes, you can wear brown in town. In fact, you can wear it just about anywhere this season – such is the panoply of brown items on offer across the board. We particularly like the treatise on brown offered up by Mr Dries Van Noten, whose AW18 collection was splashed with a mesmeric, psychedelic marbling print, which showed how well brown goes with orange and green, as well as offering various attractive examples of tailoring in brown houndstooth and Prince of Wales check. Also keen on the brown: Fendi, Acne StudiosSacai and (as ever), Prada.

How to wear it

Make brown work for you by opting for more subtle shades in the same spectrum in your accompanying garments. Wearing a lighter brown sweater or polo with beige chinos and off-white sneakers will create an overall impression of sepia-toned warmth.

Try these

  • Haider Ackermann Wool and Cashmere-Trimmed Knitted Sweater

  • Acne Studios Lars Suede and Leather Sneakers



Long coats

A horse walks into a pub. The barman says “Why the long coat?”. The horse says “Sheesh, you can’t even get the joke right, and, what’s more, why not? I happen to like long coats at the moment. I saw them in lots of fashion shows recently.” The barman doesn’t really know what to do. In his experience of the world, horses don’t go to fashion shows, and, what’s more, people don’t tend to talk about fashion in pubs. “Well, OK, but did you see the football?” he says, trying to move the whole thing into more comfortable territory, but the horse has already got his phone out, and is showing the barman a series of pictures, explaining how it’s not just the classic single-breasted coat that seems to be extra long this season in the hands of brands such as AMI and Massimo Alba, but also lightweight parkas from the likes of Valentino and Dries Van Noten. It’s the weirdest day of the barman’s life.

How to wear it

Forget about the horse. But think about your height, Yes, this is a look best suited to the taller men among us, who will look rakish and suave wearing a long coat with an unstructured blazer and grandad collar shirt. Think Withnail and I.

Try these

  • A.P.C. Ivan Herringbone Wool-Blend Coat

  • Mr P. Grandad-Collar Cotton Oxford Shirt



Winter brights

Received wisdom says winter is full of dreary shades of grey, black and brown. It is, and it should be, but this particular winter also seems to have all the primary colours, too. And then some. In fact, thanks to the overwhelming influence of 1990s streetwear and 2000s outdoor brands (see The North Face, new to MR PORTER this season), there’s bright splashes of Day-Glo colour throughout the AW18 collections, from Mr Jun Takahashi’s 2001: A Space Odyssey-themed offering for Undercover (top pick: the “Computer Malfunction” down hoodie), to Mr Haider Ackermann’s bright pastel outerwear for Berluti, to the eye-burning neon velour turtlenecks being proposed by Mr Demna Gvasalia at Balenciaga.

How to wear it

Pick one colour and let it shout. Don't be greedy. One is enough. 

Try these

  • Moncler Genius 2 Moncler 1952 Dervaux Quilted Shell Down Jacket

  • Sies Marjan Lou Oversized Cable-Knit Cotton Sweater



Oversized knitwear

What’s the most warming, comforting thing you can pick up this winter? An enormous fluffy sweater, preferably oversized. If that’s always been the case, the good news is that this is now considered fashionable as well as reassuring, with upvotes from many of the usual trendsetting subjects, including Dries Van Noten, Lanvin, Balenciaga and Gucci.

How to wear it

Taller men can get away with an all-over bagginess, and should try straight-leg jeans with their big sweaters. Shorter men, meanwhile, might look swamped – even it out with a pair of slim cords.

Try these

  • CMMN SWDN Micha Oversized Checked Knitted Sweater

  • Undercover Tapered Cotton-Corduroy Trousers



Shearling

It’s back again and, honestly, are you at all surprised? It’s been back for about six seasons running now. We’re not sure we can even call it “back”. It’s just there, all white and fluffy and undeniable. And if it isn’t already present in your wardrobe, it certainly deserves to be. Who thinks so? Well, Mr Tom Ford and Mr Brunello Cucinelli for starters. But if the budget won’t quite stretch to Mars, you’ll be pleased to know designer and contemporary brands such as Our LegacyAMIRI and more are also having a go. The key shearling piece? A trucker jacket, of course.

How to wear it

This is pretty straightforward: sling on a jacket. For the more modest budget, there are faux options from FRAME and Universal Works that still look the part. And yes, there’s always gloves.

Try these

  • Mr P. Shearling-Trimmed Leather Aviator Jacket

  • Hestra Shearling Gloves



Winter Boots

No adventure-ready outfit would be complete without a proper pair of boots, and designers have delivered amply on this front for the new season. In fact, this year’s winter boots run the full gamut from technical (Roa) to folksy (Yuketen) to ultra-refined (Brunello Cucinelli). Wear yours with a pair of thick cuffed jeans or drawstring trousers – you won’t regret it when the weather starts to turn.

How to wear it

Absolutely as pictured: boots need to be worn with straight-cut trousers that fit neatly over the top. We prefer turn-ups too – as boots are chunky items, these would be quite wide. 

Try these

  • Jean Shop Leon Slim-Fit Selvedge Stretch-Denim Jeans

  • Yuketen Maine Guide DB Leather Boots