Stylepedia

Mr Porter's Glossary of Men's Style

Busy checked wool fabrics worn by Scottish clans in order to recognise and not kill one another - in ancient times, we mean. In the modern era they also appear as suit, trouser and outerwear fabrics.

Founded in Germany in 1980, Taschen has grown into one of the leading art, photography and design publishers. Its carefully bound books on topics as diverse as vintage advertising and the work of Mr Helmut Newton are invaluable additions to the stylish coffee table or library. They also make great gifts.

A checked shirt of a cotton flannel material with a white background ("graph paper" effect). Another example of country wear that has crept into city life.

The Elder Statesman was established in 2007 in Los Angeles by Mr Greg Chait, initially as a small range of artisanal cashmere blankets. Since then, the label has become a fully fledged collection of luxury menswear, with a strong emphasis on craftsmanship, and a relaxed West Coast attitude. Only fine materials are used, which Mr Chait carefully sources from around the world. Check out the sumptuous cashmere scarves and sweaters.

"I feel as if jeans and a T-shirt have become establishment," Mr Thom Browne says. "Everyone's dressed down. So actually putting on a jacket is the anti-establishment stance." This sums up the philosophy of the acclaimed American designer's eponymous line, which has a strong base in tailoring with a playful, and at times subversive, edge to the designs keeping things interesting. Click here to read more about Thom Browne

The vast majority of good-quality ties are made from silk, although there are a few for winter made from wool and cashmere and even fewer made from cotton for summer. Silk, however, is incredibly versatile and can be used in many different ways: woven silk is flat, but delicately textured; knitted is the most rustic finish and looks like fine chain mail; raw silk will be slubby and casual; grenadine has a fine but perceptible weave; seven-fold ties are constructed without a lining, but with the silk folded seven times (hence the high price). The keeper is the loop of fabric on the back of the front blade that men without sprezzatura tuck the rear blade through. Club and regimental ties are now merely those with broad diagonal stripes, but in the past the stripes were associated with particular organisations. When it comes to ties, it's worth bearing in mind the words of the acclaimed couturier and US Esquire columnist in the 1960s, Sir Hardy Amies: "This small article of clothing is of an importance out of proportion to its size." Read more about ties

A tie bar is a piece of functional jewellery designed to keep the two blades of a tie together (something the tie keeper does less noticeably). The responsibility for their current renaissance lies with the TV show Mad Men. It is also referred to as a tie clip.

A tiepin is a wholly decorative piece of jewellery that consists of a large pin with some kind of feature at the visible end - a pearl or a miniature casting of an animal's head, perhaps. Originally they were used to secure the folds of a man's cravat.

The Windsor knot is a very large and ostentatious tie knot that men of style avoid, the half-Windsor is a more moderate version of the same and the four-in-hand is the basic knot, which is appropriate for almost all situations. Read more about ties

Hailing from Ames, Iowa, Mr Todd Snyder designed for Polo Ralph Lauren and was head of menswear at both Gap and J.Crew, before launching his own brand in 2011. Casual American classics are the order of the day, with the range now incorporating tailoring, shirts, knits and outerwear.

The celebrated publisher and stylist, Mr Jefferson Hack, has collaborated with the renowned Italian footwear brand, Tod's, on this range of shoes combining the former's eye for style and detail with the latter's made-in-Italy craftsmanship. We particularly like the contrast-sole desert boots.

A lighter-weight overcoat (see overcoat and covert coat).

Originally created for British soldiers during WWI, the trench coat became popular in the civilian world when returning troops continued to wear their army-issued coats for daily use. Since then, the trench has become a timeless wardrobe staple, largely because it was originally designed with function rather than fashion in mind. Although the trench's characteristic "D" rings are no longer used to attach map cases and other vital equipment, the wide-lapelled, double-breasted design has changed little over the past century.

During that time the trench became prominent in popular culture, appearing countless times on celluloid (Mr Humphrey Bogart in Casablanca being the most obvious example) and on the backs of style icons from Mr Jean-Paul Belmondo to Mr David Hockney. Along the way the trench coat also picked up shady underworld associations, but the MR PORTER way to wear it is with more dash than flash...

These two words have become interchangeable and refer to the felt hats that, up until the 1960s, were frequently worn by men. Today, trilbies are adopted as a dandyish style statement by a smaller number of men.

Turnbull and Asser

London shirtmaker Turnbull & Asser has been established since 1885, supplying illustrious figures - both real and fictional - from Sir Winston Churchill to James Bond, over its 125-year history. Turnbull & Asser shirts are made in England to the highest standard, using Italian fabric and mother-of-pearl buttons. In addition to the classic collection of shirts, Turnbull & Asser produces ties, cufflinks and cashmere knits, also manufactured in Britain. Read more about Turnbull & Asser

Where the hem of a pair of trousers has been finished with a permanent double cuff, which requires a separate piece of fabric to be attached to the ankle opening so that the turn-up looks like the rest of the trousers. Trousers with turn-ups are less formal than those without them.

A twill that is commonly used to make jackets. Some of the more basic forms are Harris (from Scotland, where they know something about wet and damp weather) and Donegal (manufactured in the Ulster province of the Republic of Ireland and Northern Ireland). Tweeds come in a range of weights, from the heavy winter weights (21oz) down to lighter ones for spring (14oz). What often passes for a summer tweed is actually a tweed-patterned jacket made out of a combination of silk and Irish linen. Read more about tweed jackets

A weave of fabric with parallel diagonal ribs.