THE JOURNAL

Illustration by Mr Joe McKendry
How to get your closet in order for the new season.
In light of the Siberian blasts we’ve been subjected to of late, it might seem premature to start packing away your winter woollens, but there are tantalising signs that fairer weather does indeed linger on the horizon and with it, we hope, a return to meteorological normality. With this shift in seasons comes the inevitable need to rethink your wardrobe strategies. What do you do with all those heavy overcoats and fisherman knits now the mercury is on the up? We spoke to Mr Luca Rubinacci, designer, Instagram aficionado and dapper man about town (who also happens to have one of the most well-curated wardrobes we’ve ever seen), who gave us some pointers on how to get your wardrobe set for the months ahead.

INVEST IN PROPER HANGERS
We’re often sold the virtues of stocking up on wooden hangers, which aesthetically are a considerable step up from those flimsy wire things from your dry cleaner, but there’s a practical point, too. “As they are more robust than the plastic kind, you can hang more than one jacket or coat on a wood hanger,” says Mr Rubinacci. “A single hanger can also take around 100 ties, so they actually help save space. “I’d also suggest going for thicker hangers for tailoring. The wider shape will help keep the shoulders of tailored items in good shape when they’re out of action for several months.”


KEEP THE MOTHS AT BAY
Finding that a rogue wool-moth caterpillar has dined on your favourite cashmere rollneck when you return to it in the autumn is an all too familiar scenario, but it can easily be avoided with a few simple precautions. “Cover your venerable wool and cashmere pieces with an air-tight garment bag to keep the moths at bay,” says Mr Rubinacci. “With knitwear, which shouldn’t be hung, but folded, otherwise it will stretch out of shape, seal each one individually in a garment bag, then place moth-repellent sachets on top, on the outside. This way, your knitwear won’t take on the scent of moth-repellent.” It is possible to find decent-smelling repellent nowadays that are a far cry from the musty, mid-century mothballs your grandmother was so keen on.


NEWSPAPER IS YOUR FRIEND
We all know that leather shoes should be stored with wooden shoe trees to keep them in shape when you’re not wearing them, but what do you do with your casual footwear when it’s on hiatus? “With sneakers and sportier shoes, I stuff newspaper inside them, then pop them inside dust bags,” says Mr Rubinacci. “This way, you can stack them on top of each other and they won’t lose their shape. It’s far more space-effective than keeping them in their boxes.” Not all your winter footwear needs to be exiled from your shoe rack just yet. A solid pair of hiking or military boots are still worth a second look. “Around this time, we get the most rain, so keeping your boots out is always a good idea in order to tackle damp terrain,” says Mr Rubinacci. “I’d team them with a tweed jacket, turtleneck and jeans and then switch the tweed jacket for something lighter like a cotton military jacket on better days. By changing just one item, you can take your look from sporty to casual and the boots still remain a key component.”


ORDER BY COLOUR
There are many tried and tested systems of wardrobe organisation that the sartorially inclined swear by. Mr Rubincci advocates a system ordered by colour. “I arrange all the plain colours – the whites, the blues the pinks – followed by checks and other patterns in separate groups,” he says. “It’s often the mentality of men to go for the first thing they think of when dressing. If you think you want to wear a blue blazer and have all your blues grouped together – whether that’s in plain, checks or tweed fabrics – it’s much easier for you to pick an alternative choice and give your items a proper rotation. I also find this helps you put together an outfit quickly. I want to get dressed as fast as possible in the morning. It just makes your life easier.” In the long run, this will also help you weed out what you haven’t worn in past year so you can decide what to cull in a clear-out.


RESTOCK WITH VERSATILE ITEMS
Whenever you’ve made some space, it’s human nature to want to fill it. Your wardrobe is no exception. “At this time of year, investing in something that can adapt with differing spells of weather is key,” says Mr Rubinacci. “Rubinacci high-waisted Manny trousers, for example, are made from a brushed-cotton flannel, which is a great fabric during changeable weather because it’s insulating, but breathable. You can wear them with a T-shirt for a sporty look in the summer or with a blue blazer and shirt in cooler weather. They’re a great all-rounder.” You might not be able to get away with swanning around in a tee and shorts for the entire season and something a little smarter might be required. “Due to its open weave, a hopsack jacket is comfortable and airy to wear in warmer climes and looks both sporty and elegant,” says Mr Rubinacci. “The texture of the weave also makes the cloth wrinkle-resistant, so it’s perfect for packing for your summer getaways.”
Wardrobe recalibration

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