THE JOURNAL

From left: Valentino runway, Paris, 22 January. Photograph by Mr Isidore Montag/IMAXtree. Paul Smith runway, Paris, 19 January. Photograph by Mr Isidore Montag/IMAXtree. Sacai runway, Paris, 18 January. Photograph by Mr Isidore Montag/IMAXtree. Dries Van Noten runway, Paris, 16 January. Photograph by Mr Isidore Montag/IMAXtree. Ermenegildo Zegna runway, Milan, 10 January. Photograph by Mr Paolo Lanzi/IMAXtree
It is a universal truth that some fashion trends are not meant for real life – carrying a mock up of your own head as an accessory, for example, is one Gucci lark that was, thankfully, runway-only. However, some of the more risky trends are worth, well, the risk. Knowing your limits is important, of course, but even the most conservatively dressed should enjoy going against the grain now and again. Struggling with one of the bolder new trends? That’s where we come in. From wacky animal prints to statement sweaters, or a suit so comfortable you could sleep in it, this is our list of this season’s tricky trends, accompanied by some helpful advice on how to carry them off should you feel bold enough.
01. The all-white outfit

From left: Jacquemus runway, Paris, 18 January. Photograph by Mr Salvatore Dragone/IMAXtree. Valentino runway, Paris, 22 January. Photograph by Mr Isidore Montag/IMAXtree. Craig Green runway, Paris, 19 January. Photograph by Mr Carlo Scarpato/IMAXtree
Not the safest thing to wear on any occasion, an all-white outfit demands a certain level of bravery from the outset (although it is possible, with this handy guide). Still, if you’ve got the wherewithal to wear it, and the foresight to socially distance yourself from anyone drinking red wine this summer, an all-white look can be one of the crispest, cleanest outfit choices a man can make. Seen here in the AW20 collections from Jacquemus, Craig Green and Valentino, all-white outfits have been trending on and off for the past few years, but have really picked up steam in recent seasons. To do it yourself, choose shirts and trousers in summery fabrics such as linen or rayon – think breezy and comfortable – and pair them with espadrilles or leather slides, and float around in your new outfit like a kind of stylish riviera Jesus.
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02. The coordinated outfit (or “set-up”)

From left: Bode runway, Paris, 18 January. Photograph by Salvatore Dragone/IMAXtree. Paul Smith runway, Paris, 19 January. Photograph by Isidore Montag/IMAXtree. ALYX 9SM runway, Paris, 19 January. Photograph by Alessandro Lucioni/IMAXtree
There’s been an undeniable trend for coordinating outfits in recent seasons – trousers and jackets of exactly the same colour and fabric worn together. Already a dressing quirk popular in East Asia, there’s no real name for it in the West yet, so let’s do as the Japanese do and call it a “set-up”. The set-up is less about tailoring and more about simply matching the top to the bottom, though be mindful of matching swim shorts and shirt sets, lest you want to dress like a Love Island wannabe. Stick instead to minimal prints or block colours (see BODE’s resplendent green set-up, above). For the footwear, minimalist sneakers or understated loafers are the safest option, but there’s an opportunity to be had in adding something a little more daring, too: note the jazzy animal-print shoes in 1017 ALYX 9SM’s all-beige look, above.
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03. The cosy statement sweater

From left: Nicholas Daley runway, London, 04 January. Photograph by Mr Armando Grillo/IMAXtree. Sacai runway, Paris, 18 January. Photograph by Mr Isidore Montag/IMAXtree. Gucci runway, Milan, 14 January. Photograph by Mr Daniele Oberrauch/IMAXtree
Another contender for the best in show for at-home dressing is the cosy statement sweater. This one combines comfortable knitwear with personality, pattern and colour. Gucci does this particularly well if you like your knitwear statements on the louder side; it marries a luxurious handle (the wool and alpaca blends are particularly tactile) with Mr Alessandro Michele’s impressive design know-how. In terms of what to wear it with, go for a pair of trousers or chinos to keep everything sharp (hairy sweaters with sweatpants aren’t advised). If you’re not quite ready for cartoon ducks on your chest, look instead to Folk or Howlin’, both of which produce brilliant knitwear that’s comfortable to wear but will still garner a few compliments come (virtual) pub quiz night.
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04. Wacky animal print

From left: Acne Studios runway, Paris, 19 January. Photograph by Mr Salvatore Dragone/IMAXtree. Dries Van Noten runway, Paris, 16 January. Photograph by Mr Isidore Montag/IMAXtree. Sacai runway, Paris, 18 January. Photograph by Mr Isidore Montag/IMAXtree
Strange that the popularity for animal print exploded on the runways around the same time that Tiger King came into our lives, but fashion works in mysterious ways. In the run up to the wildly popular Netflix documentary, were big cat fanatics Mr Joe Exotic and Ms Carole Baskin both moonlighting as fashion consultants? That is one explanation for the proliferation of animal prints at the moment. This isn’t your standard day-at-the-zoo fare either; it’s loud and flamboyant, with an element of sleaze thrown in for good measure. A good thing to trial on a Zoom call before you take it out into the real world, but to be worn well, bold animal print must be approached with both confidence and a sense of humour. Unless you want to aim for a look worthy of the aforementioned Mr Exotic, you’ll want to keep the rest of your outfit relatively subdued (tiger print on leopard print on snakeskin print will only result in a massacre, with you as the victim). If you’re not ready to go the whole tiger-striped hog, opt for an animal-print accessory instead, such as this fuzzy belt from Japanese brand Neighborhood.
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05. Pyjama tailoring

From left: Dunhill runway, Paris, 19 January. Photograph by Mr Carlo Scarpato/IMAXtree. Ermenegildo Zegna runway, Milan, 10 January. Photograph by Mr Paolo Lanzi/IMAXtree. Giorgio Armani runway, Milan, 13 January. Photograph by Mr Salvatore Dragone/IMAXtree
Tailoring may have become more adventurous in recent years thanks to 1970s nostalgia and Balenciaga’s prolificacy of XL blazers, but now things have moved into even more louche territory. Suits that look comfortable enough to sleep in are the new thing, and with many of us now working from “the home office” (which can mean a desk, a sofa, or even your bed, as long as you don’t tell your colleagues), there’s never been a better time to try this out. Jackets are baggy, occasionally half-breasted or even tied to look like kimono jackets (see Ermenegildo Zegna and Dunhill, above). Look to brands such as Gabriela Hearst, Lemaire and The Row for the ultimate in unstuffy, sumptuous fabrics that give the wearer a totally at-ease look while retaining a sense of luxury. With changing attitudes to office life, this fresh and relaxed silhouette is very possibly what our suits will look like from now on, whether we’re working from a desk or a bed.
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