How To Buy A Watch As A Gift

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How To Buy A Watch As A Gift

Words by Adam Cheung

Three hours ago

A watch is a lovely thing to give as a gift for any occasion, but especially for the holidays. However, choosing one can feel like a bigger job than it needs to be. Dress watch or sports watch? Quartz or automatic? And what does a GMT hand even do? You don’t need to learn the whole watch lexicon before you start looking. A few good clues will help you find something that feels right for them.

01. Start with what they already wear

If they wear a watch every day, take a closer look at it. Is it big and sporty? Slim and simple? Covered in complications or just there to tell the time? Note the case size, strap or bracelet and whether it’s steel, gold-coloured or something else. You don’t need to find an exact match, of course – just look for the details they keep coming back to (especially if they have a few watches).

Their clothes can also help. A wardrobe full of suits might suggest something low-key that sits neatly under a cuff. Someone who lives in sneakers may prefer something more casual and robust. Do they wear jewellery? Do they like a polished finish or something more understated? Are they careful with their accessories or do their shoes and bags pick up a few scuffs along the way? These are all useful clues to their taste.

If they don’t wear a watch, that doesn’t rule one out. They may not have found one that suits them – yet. In which case, look at the accessories that they do wear. If they tend to keep things simple, a straightforward design is a good place to start. If they like a statement piece, there’s room to be a bit more adventurous.

02. Choose a type of watch they’ll actually use

A dress watch is usually slim and understated, designed to slide under a shirt cuff. It works with tailoring, but a simple one can look just as good with everyday clothes.

Sports watches cover a lot of ground. A diver’s watch, with its rotating bezel and clear dial, is designed to help track dive time. These days, it looks as natural with a sweatshirt as it does with a wetsuit. Check the stated water resistance before swimming though – a diver-style bezel alone doesn’t automatically mean a watch is suitable for it. Confusing, we know.

Field watches are more stripped back, with clear numerals and a practical feel. Chronographs have extra pushers and small subdials because they include a stopwatch function. For someone who likes a dial with a bit more going on, that extra detail may be part of the appeal.

You’ll also see integrated-bracelet watches, which are becoming increasingly popular. Here, the bracelet joins the case without the usual separate lugs. They tend to have a sportier, more contemporary look.

These categories are useful starting points, rather than dress codes. The question is which style fits their clothes and their routine.

03. Get the fit right

Case diameter is the measurement across the case, usually given in millimetres. It’s useful, but it doesn’t tell you the whole story. Thickness, shape, and lug-to-lug length (the distance from one end of the case to the other) all affect how a watch sits on the wrist. A large watch can wear neatly if its lugs curve down, while a smaller one can still feel chunky if the case is thick.

If they already own a watch they like, check its measurements and use that as a guide. It should feel comfortable, sit securely and look balanced on the wrist. There’s no universal formula for wrist size and case size, so don’t get too caught up in the numbers. The watch on the wrist tells you more than the one on a product page.

A jeweller or watch retailer can adjust a bracelet if the fit isn’t quite right out of the box. Leather and rubber straps are easier to size and can usually be swapped later down the line.

04. Think about materials and straps

Stainless steel is durable and versatile. Titanium is lighter, which can make a larger watch more comfortable to wear. Gold has more presence and tends to push the price up. Ceramic has a smooth finish and is resistant to scratches.

The strap changes the feel of the watch, too. A steel bracelet can look sporty or dressy depending on its design and finish. Leather tends to look smarter, while rubber and fabric feel more relaxed. If you’re unsure, steel is probably the best option to go for: it works with most outfits and the strap can often be changed later.

05. Quartz or mechanical?

Quartz watches are battery powered and keep time accurately with little attention. Solar watches use light to recharge their battery. Both suit someone who wants a watch that works without a regular winding routine.

Mechanical watches, meanwhile, have more going on inside. An automatic watch winds itself as the wearer moves – a hand-wound watch needs winding by hand, usually every day or two. They require more care than quartz watches, but that’s part of the pleasure for some people: a small daily ritual, with a piece of engineering working beneath the dial. Mechanical watches also need periodic servicing, so factor that into the cost of ownership.

The right movement depends on how they’ll use the watch. Would they enjoy the mechanics and upkeep or prefer something that asks very little of them?

06. Beyond telling the time

A complication is any watch function beyond telling the time. A chronograph measures elapsed time. A GMT watch has an extra hand that can show a second time zone, useful for someone who travels. A moonphase display tracks the phases of the moon. Its appeal is often in the detail it brings to the dial, rather than the need to check the lunar calendar.

At the higher end, you’ll come across mechanisms such as tourbillons and minute repeaters. A tourbillon puts the balance and escapement (parts that regulate the movement) inside a rotating cage. It was originally designed to improve timekeeping in pocket watches by reducing errors caused by gravity. A minute repeater chimes the time when activated. These are specialist pieces of watchmaking, and much of their appeal lies in the skill and engineering involved. They’re worth exploring if the person you’re buying for is already interested in watches – neither is essential for everyday wear.

07. Consider pre-owned

Pre-owned watches can open up a wider choice of models and price points, including pieces that aren’t even being made anymore. Condition matters. Check the case and dial for damage, ask about the service history and make sure the seller can verify that the watch is the real deal.

Buy from a reputable dealer who can explain the watch’s condition and what support is available after the sale.

08. Think before you buy

Decide what you’re comfortable spending before you start browsing. A watch’s price reflects more than its name – the movement, materials and finishing all play a part. For a new watch, check what the warranty covers and whether the bracelet can be adjusted. As it’s a gift, make sure you keep the receipt and find out how much time you have if you need to exchange it.

If you’re still unsure, go back to what they wear already. The size, strap and dial of their current watch are a good reference for what might feel right next. Get those details right and the watch will feel like it belongs to them from the start.

The gift of time