Everything you need to know about the British brand.

“Simple” is a word Mr David Keyte uses a lot when talking about his brand. As the founder of Universal Works – which has just launched an exclusive capsule collection on MR PORTER – Mr Keyte’s focus is on clothing that speaks for itself, but never shouts. “Someone much more eloquent than me described Universal Works as ‘good honest menswear’,” says Mr Keyte, who started the brand almost a decade ago. “I always liked that description – it’s simple but to the point, and I believe we have a clear message. [The brand is] understated and well-made – great design, but never over-designed, affordable – and simple – modern menswear.”

Universal Works may favour simplicity, but that doesn’t mean its clothes aren’t detail-orientated or without a backstory. Inspired by the styling details of military garments and blue-collar workwear Mr Keyte saw growing up in the Midlands, everything from the fit to the fabric (from premium Italian and Japanese cloths) is just so. The tapered pleated cotton trousers in the collection, for instance, are finished with upturned cuffs and horn buttons, while the paisley-print cotton shirt has a boxy fit and is inspired by the kind of thing Mr Keyte’s dad might have worn in the 1970s. Hibiscus motifs are peppered throughout the collection, embroidered on the back of retro chore jackets, or appliquéd on cotton cardigans reminiscent of Nottingham’s Northern Soul scene that Mr Keyte hoovered up in his youth.

Despite these references to the past, however, Mr Keyte says that “the importance is in the mixing of these elements and references to give a contemporary yet accessible aesthetic. We want to make product that has ‘soul’ and has been made with care and honesty.” The result is clothes that look and feel good, without frills. Simple.