One of the great joys of travelling is the recalibration, taking a city you’d relegated to a stopover or resort destination and realising that there’s something more.

Perhaps you haven’t spent substantial quantities of time pondering Abu Dhabi – aside from the annual spectacle of watching Mr Lewis Hamilton and company compete in the final race of the Formula 1 season.

The UAE capital, however, has been quietly building a smorgasbord of dizzying experiences for those opting for more than a layover. An itinerary here can (and ought to) zig-zag between fine dining, luxury hotels and unexpectedly energetic nightlife.

F1 weekend remains an ideal time to take in Abu Dhabi. Festivities are at a high, while the weather dips down to winter temperatures (a comfortable high-twenties centigrade). So, pick out a race-worthy ensemble and get planning.

Stylish, exceedingly discreet and with a penchant for tasteful revelry. The EDITION knows its bread and butter, and the series of hotels imagined by Mr Ian Schrager is just as distinguished in Abu Dhabi. Here, in a break from tradition, the hotel is tucked away from the action and sits on the water in Al Bateen Marina.

That’s not bad news, particularly on a weekend that brings as much partying as F1. Consider this a worthy retreat, replete with Le Labo amenities, awe-inspiring breakfast offerings and, if you’re so inclined, in-house nightlife options such as the three-storey Annex club.

The vibe:  minimalist luxe.

Best for:  the stylish yet private.

Try this:  a quiet drink at the Library Bar (that leads to not so quiet drinks).

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It’s no secret that the Arab world holds the notion of “luxury” to exacting standards. And so it is at Zaya Nurai Island, which is accessible only by boat. Here you’ll find oversized villas and a mood that’s buzzy without ever veering into cheesy.

Though the design cues throughout are chic and impressive – the luxury beach villas are all natural light and crisp white linens – the real draw is the clear waters of the Persian Gulf which, with a blink, can feel almost Maldivian. Those waters are best paired with an afternoon at the beach bar, Ginger Mermaid, or in one of the glass spa suites suspended over the sea.

Opt to have your quarters close to the private beach and you can flirt with accomplishing an island escape and Formula 1 getaway, all in a weekend.

The vibe:  island escape, 20 minutes from the city.

Best for:  the overworked traveller with an underworked Instagram.

Try this:  a smoky margarita by the window at Dusk, the in-house Mexican restaurant, at dusk.

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Yes, this is a hotel with lodgings that are on the quieter, more conservative side of luxury. And that can be a very, very good thing. The rooms here are spacious and have an excellent habit of offering views of the Abu Dhabi skyline and Arabian Gulf – an outlook that becomes particularly picturesque during the neon hues of sunset.

While you would be remiss not to take advantage of the freestanding bath inside your room, we’d gently nudge you towards the hotel’s extensive wine cellar, which houses some 1,000 bottles of the world’s finest. Helpfully, it’s set on Al Maryah Island, which holds a glut of nearby dining and shopping opportunities, should the urge strike.

The vibe:  no-fuss luxury. With a view.

Best for:  an urban retreat – with no shortage of amenities.

Try this:  did we mention the wine cellar?

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Though a remarkable array of international dining concepts have sprung up in the UAE – from La Petite Maison to COYA – a visit to the Middle East without taking in the local cuisine is a visit wasted. In Abu Dhabi, you’re not wanting for brilliant Middle Eastern cuisine, and Sambusek is a Lebanese experience with a substantial quantity of polish.

At this time of year, the waterside terrace is where you want to be, and you’d do well to begin proceedings with hot mezze such as the chicken liver and pomegranate. In this dish, sweet meets tart to brilliant effect. From there, opt for liberal quantities of the restaurant’s namesake pastries, which are ideal for sharing.

Do it better:  by, if you’re inclined, adding a shisha to your order.

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In many ways, Zuma exemplifies what’s going on in the UAE capital right now. There’s a determination to bring the best of the world to the Middle East, but always, always, always with an elegant twist.

You can see as much at Louvre Abu Dhabi, a museum that often stands toe to toe with the far more established powerhouses in Europe. And you can most certainly find that energy at Zuma Abu Dhabi, the Japanese restaurant that traces its roots back to London.

Zuma’s founder, Mr Rainer Becker, has held a lifelong fandom for motorsport – making an Abu Dhabi outpost a natural choice. If you’ve visited Zuma’s other locations, you’ll know all too well what to expect: obnoxiously tasty robata barbecue, the iconic black cod dish and experiential touchpoints that are, start to finish, impeccable.

Do it better:  if you’re OK with being a little tardy for practice or qualifying on the track, the brunch here is an awfully good excuse.

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With so much of Abu Dhabi’s entertainment set within its sprawling archipelagos, it makes sense to visit Buddha-Bar Beach, set on the shores of Saadiyat. The space feels purpose-built for the winter months. When the weather in Abu Dhabi is just so, it’s as picturesque a setting for drinks as they come.

While you’re perfectly entitled to focus attention on the cocktail menu, seafood ought to come into play; think punchy ceviche, crispy sashimi tacos and deep-fried lobster dumplings that come with a little kick.

Do it better:  “sundowner” is a word that holds magical qualities. Time your arrival carefully.

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If you’ve taken the time to wholly experience the Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque – the towering architectural feat that no social media feed can do justice to – then your next most worthy cultural stop is Louvre, Abu Dhabi. Here, under an iconic domed roof and surrounded by deep blue waters is one of the more remarkable experiences in the Middle East. For a man of style – and as MR PORTER reader we dare to suggest that you are – the museum’s 10,000 Years Of Luxury exhibition, which runs until February, is an itinerary must. Curated by Mr Olivier Gabet, director of Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris, the exhibition charts a course through a long history of exceptional objects, from an 8,000-year-old pearl to Dior couture and outstanding pieces from Cartier.