An Insider’s Guide To Palma, Mallorca

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An Insider’s Guide To Palma, Mallorca

Words by Mr Ben Olsen

1 November 2018

El Camino restaurant. Photograph courtesy of El Camino

Although often just used as a jumping off point for those en route to the island’s – admittedly beautiful – beaches, Mallorca’s sun-kissed capital is a sophisticated destination well worth your time. With a commanding location overlooking the Mediterranean, the city’s characterful network of medieval streets, elegant tree-lined boulevards and lively squares plays host to boutiques, galleries, bistros and bars, with plenty to offer over a long weekend.

British restaurateur Mr Eddie Hart, whose scene-defining CV includes London’s Fino, Barrafina and Quo Vadis, spent 40 years holidaying on Mallorca – where his mother was born – before moving to Palma last year to set up a new restaurant with singer-songwriter Mr Samuel Gough. Set off the elegant Passeig d’es Born in the heart of the old town, El Camino – which launched this autumn – channels the best of Mallorcan culinary culture with its menu of small plates and local wines. Having now fully immersed himself in island life, Mr Hart shares his tips below on how to enjoy Palma like a local.

Where to have brunch 

La Molienda

Brunch at La Molienda. Photograph courtesy of La Molienda

“La Molienda is part of a new wave of stylishly relaxed cafes in the city with an emphasis on quality coffees and food made freshly to order, making it a very good place to read the papers while enjoying brunch.”

lamolienda.es

What to see 

Palma Cathedral

Santa Maria of Palma Cathedral. Photograph by Education Images/UIG/Getty Images

“Palma’s is one of the most awe-inspiring and beautiful cathedrals in the world and has such a fabulous location perched above the sea. Known locally as La Seu, the cathedral has an interesting knave painted by Miquel Barceló, Spain’s most famous living contemporary artist, who is from Felanitx, Mallorca.”

catedraldemallorca.org

Where to have lunch

Santa Catalina Market

“This market is one of my favourite places to eat in Palma. You can buy incredible fresh fish from the fishmonger’s and ask the bar directly opposite to cook it up for you. The mother and daughter team are charming and always cook what you give them to perfection.”

mercatdesantacatalina.com

Where to shop

Rialto Living

Photograph courtesy of Rialto Living

“Rialto Living must be one of the most beautifully designed shops I have ever seen, on what was the premises of the old Cinema Rialto. You can buy anything from a stylish notebook to a pair of shoes, a winter jacket, interior design books, a length of fabric or a bunch of flowers. You can also stop for a coffee in the cafe.”

rialtoliving.com

Where to have dinner

El Camino

Photograph courtesy of El Camino

“I can’t not mention that my favourite place to eat is our very own El Camino, in the heart of Palma. It’s a no-reservations bar with Mediterranean plates, delicious local wines and a bustling vibe. Mr Xavier Borrás, the proprietor of local wine store Mallorcària, supplies us with a third of the wines on our list and has a fascinating selection of wines from the island and the mainland.”

elcaminopalma.es

Where to go for drinks 

Tast Club

“This is a sophisticated restaurant and bar with quite a club-like feel. It’s perfect for a snack at the bar or a late-night drink accompanied by a happy time spent in the generously appointed walk-in humidor.”

tast.com