THE JOURNAL
The full metal jacket of Full Metal Jacket wasn’t a jacket at all, it was a bullet. Specifically, one with a hard shell and a soft core. But if it was a jacket, that jacket would be the MIL-C-43199, the hot weather “jungle jacket” worn under a flak jacket by Private Joker throughout the second half of the film – and by the director Stanley Kubrick during its filming (not in Vietnam, but east London). A similar style is worn by Al Pacino in Serpico and Robert De Niro in Taxi Driver, offering styling pointers for a civilian setting. By the latter end of the 20th century, surplus military gear made this iconic piece standard issue for countercultural rebels. But it’s also the perfect outerwear for right now.
“The field jacket is one of those rare pieces that makes the transition from summer into the new season almost effortless,” says Rachel O-Williams, Personal Shopper at MR PORTER. “Its durable construction means it can handle unpredictable weather, while its versatility makes it easy to layer over everything from a T-shirt to a chunky knit.”
There’s more to it than that, though. “For me, a field jacket is a military garment at heart and I think of the M-51 style jackets that were made during the 1960s for the Vietnam War,” says Benedict Browne, MR PORTER’s Style Director. The later introduction of the M-65 gave soldiers further protection in heavy rain. “Big patch pockets with flaps, adjustable cuffs, stand collar, removable liner… They eventually made it into the mainstream thanks to the likes of De Niro.”
All of which is worth noting as this piece of outerwear makes a return to our collective wardrobes – you’ll see designer takes on the style across the collections for the new season. And who wouldn’t want to look like De Niro? (Yes, we’re talking to you.)
o1. Pick a pocket
You’re a man. You like pockets. Maybe, as the TikTok trend suggests, you keep your grown-up personal effects on one side and novelty or nostalgic items on the other. We’re not here to tell you what to put in them. But if you did want to carry a sizeable stack of Pokémon cards about your person, then a field jacket would be a good way to go about it.
Why are we obsessed with pockets? “Because, quite simply, most men still refuse to carry a bag,” O-Williams says. “Honestly, I get it, a bag isn’t for everyone. Multiple pockets offer the perfect alternative, giving you somewhere to keep the daily essentials while keeping both hands free. Everything has its place. It’s practical, uncomplicated and, for many men, the closest thing to a handbag they’re ever going to consider.”
“All the best clothes have functionality and purpose at the forefront of their designs, and the field jacket is just that,” Browne says. “Designed for the great outdoors, it’s got pockets galore – four front pockets, at the very minimum – for your essentials.”
In its traditional form, a working field jacket’s chest pockets would’ve been used for flat items, such as maps, compasses or, in Joker’s case, a shorthand notebook. The hip pockets would’ve come in handy for bulkier items, such as gloves, binoculars, tools or rations. (Carrying munitions in a pocket is not typically advised.)
Certainly, for civilian use, a field jacket makes it easy to compartmentalise your life. After all, there’s plenty of room for the “big three” – phone, keys, wallet – as well as a duplicate Umbreon, should the opportunity to trade present itself.
02. Dripped in drabs
While best known in a solid khaki, or “Olive Green 107”, the field jacket was issued in a range of colours determined by the conditions of specific operational arenas – from woodland camo to a six-colour pattern for the desert affectionately referred to as “Chocolate Chip”. Beyond the battlefield, don’t feel tied to combat livery.
“Khaki would be true to form, but it’s the silhouette and functionality that’s more important than tone,” Browne says. “More urban colours – navy, grey, black even – have a more contemporary edge.”
“For me, the original khaki is hard to beat,” O-Williams says. “It speaks to the field jacket’s utilitarian roots and gives it an authenticity that works particularly well when contrasted with more polished everyday pieces. There’s something cool about pairing such a practical, military-inspired colour with tailoring, denim or a refined knit. That juxtaposition is what makes the field jacket feel contemporary.”
03. Go a size bigger
The M-65 was intentionally cut to be oversized and boxy to allow for a cold-weather quilted liner. Not only does this make it the ideal piece for today’s more generous silhouettes, it offers a clue as to how to work one into your wardrobe.
“Always size up,” O-Williams advises. “The field jacket is a cool, relaxed style, and it needs a little room to do what it does best. You want enough space to layer underneath, whether that’s a lightweight knit now or something heavier as the temperature drops. Think of it as building your outer layer rather than simply throwing on a jacket.”
Browne agrees. “My personal preference would be so you can layer heavy knitwear beneath during winter,” he says. “But for those transitional periods either side, having that extra bit of room is comfortable.”