THE JOURNAL
Italians like to talk. To each other, to anyone, anywhere. We commend them for this. But they also know when to keep schtum. They can famously hold entire conversations using their hands instead of their mouths. And, based on the evidence put forward on the shelves of MR PORTER, they can also use restraint in the way they communicate with their clothes.
Sure, there are the so-called Pitti peacocks, who dress flamboyantly and vie for the attention of street-style photographers at the biannual trade fair in Florence. And then there’s a roster of Italian brands that will quietly make you look put together without the need for a raised voice. Unsung heroes, you could call them, or certainly the opposite of operatic.
Just because they don’t like to make a scene about what they do doesn’t mean we can’t. Or, better yet, we can compile a list of them. The brands below might not vocalise their own praises, but they sure can make an outfit sing.
01. Slowear
A pair of Incotex chinos were among the items in the first-ever purchase on MR PORTER back in 2011, so we’re more than familiar with the line now stocked under its parent name, Slowear. But perhaps this brand goes under the radar precisely because the clothing is so good. Slip it on and you can almost forget you’re wearing it.
“If you’re looking to refresh your wardrobe essentials with pieces that are both timeless and comfortable, Slowear should be your first stop,” says Kit Swann, Fashion Editor at MR PORTER. “Rooted in functionality, the brand elevates everyday staples through the use of luxurious fabrics, from silk blends to soft cashmere, creating a collection that feels effortlessly refined and quietly luxurious.”
02. Boglioli
A navy blazer is indispensable in any man’s wardrobe. But how much thought goes into how it attained that navy colour? With the launch of its now signature K-Jacket in 1987, Boglioli also introduced its groundbreaking garment dyeing technique.
Convention suggests using yarn-dyeing, whereby the thread is dyed before it is made into cloth. However, this family-run outfit pioneered a process for making the jacket first, then colouring it. This unlined and unconstructed piece has since been reimagined in fabrics ranging from cotton twills to tropical wool to flannel, always using similar methods.
“There is a simplicity and cleanliness to Boglioli’s tailoring, but it should never be mistaken for basic,” Swann says. “Defined by flattering cuts and contemporary proportions, each piece strikes the perfect balance between elegance and ease. The brand’s signature jacket is an ideal starting point for anyone seeking refined, unfussy tailoring with a modern edge.”
03. Canali
Closing in on a century of operation, Canali is best known for its Italian-made tailoring. In fact, it’s so interwoven with certain smartly dressed professions that it provided costuming for legal thrillers including The Firm and Michael Clayton. But there’s a lot more to this brand than its suits.
“While rooted in formalwear, Canali also excels at elevated casualwear,” Swann says. “From year-round essentials to refined seasonal pieces, muted tones, rich textures and premium fabrics create a versatile wardrobe that is both sophisticated and effortlessly interchangeable.”
04. De Petrillo
When he spoke to us, Benedetto De Petrillo, the founder of the brand, told us that his creative process was a lot like cooking. (So far, so Italian.) “You have the basic recipe for what you have to do,” he said. “But there’s always one ingredient you can’t find, so you use another one. You think, I’ll add this or that. I’ll leave this out. So, it’s almost as if I’m thinking about a new collection.”
With Neapolitan tailoring, what is left out comes to define what is kept. With the lining and construction traditionally stripped away, the fabrication and construction become the focus. This is what De Petrillo excels at.
“With De Petrillo, exceptional craftsmanship comes as standard,” Swann says. “Each piece is beautifully constructed using luxurious fabrics, resulting in timeless garments that are made to last and a pleasure to wear.”
05. Eleventy
In a country noted for storied fashion houses, Eleventy is comparatively barely out of short trousers – it turns 20 next year. Which explains why the brand understands modern Milanese smart-casual better than most. Within its collection, cashmere hoodies and drawstring trousers sit shoulder to shoulder with blazers. And sometimes as part of the same suit.
06. Officine Creative
Those not wishing to put a foot wrong could do worse than a pair of shoes from Officine Creative. Each pair is made by hand and goes through more than 100 processes to ensure that the patina comes lived-in before you even step into them. Launched in the 1990s, the shoemaker taps into traditions that go back far further. In doing so, it pulled generations of know-how into more modern forms.
“Officine Creative is one of the most exciting footwear makers today,” Swann says. “Crafted from beautifully patinated leathers, each pair combines exceptional craftsmanship with effortless comfort, feeling more like a favourite pair of slippers than a new pair of shoes.”
07. Valstar
A rule of thumb with restaurants is that the smaller the menu is, the few things that they do do, they tend to do exceptionally well. So it is with Valstar, which, since 1935, when its Valstarino jacket was first introduced, has stuck with the signature piece.
The original design took its style cues from the A-1, which eight years before became the first standardised flight jacket to be issued by the US Army. Valstar’s take was built for civilian life, with a sporty feel and made from a supple leather. It’s refined – although hasn’t needed to change much in 90 years, beyond material (you can also buy it from MR PORTER in cotton, linen, suede and shell variants).
“If there’s one wardrobe staple I’d recommend, it’s a Valstar bomber jacket,” Swann says. “The brand has perfected the style, creating jackets that are built to last and only improve with age.”
08. Barena
Venice was once the centre of its own Mediterranean and Adratic republic before falling under the control of first France, then Austria and joining the newly minted Kingdom of Italy in 1866. There remains an independent spirit to this city, built as it is across a series of islands. And while not dipping into the region’s history of masks or even the fashion of the baroque movement, there is a certain Venetian flair to the understated style of Barena.
Founded in 1961, the brand produces elegant pieces that are quietly and confidently brimming with character. “Barena embodies effortless Italian style, but what sets the brand apart is its relaxed approach to fit,” Swann says. “Premium fabrics are paired with wider, looser cuts and details such as elasticated waistbands, placing comfort at the heart of every piece.”