AMI’s AW21 Collection Comes From Paris, With Love

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AMI’s AW21 Collection Comes From Paris, With Love

Words by Chris Elvidge | Photography by Mr Dham Srifuengfung | Styling by Mr Olie Arnold

15 November 2021

Fashion is supposed to be a bit of escapism, a salve for our troubled times. Yes, clothes are essentially functional things, but their greater purpose, to quote TV tidying up expert Ms Marie Kondo, is to spark joy. And if the pursuit of happiness through sartorial means is your goal, then there are few better places to begin than with AMI PARIS.

The brainchild of veteran designer Mr Alexandre Mattiussi (his initials form the name of the brand, which also means “friend” in French), AMI PARIS celebrates its 10th anniversary this year – an occasion it shares with none other than MR PORTER. What a fruitful year 2011 was.

To mark the occasion, the brand has released an autumn/winter collection that feels like a greatest hits album of sorts. It features a little bit of everything we’ve come to love about the label over the past 10 years, from its trademark softly tailored coats and jackets to tees, sweats and accessories embroidered with the now-iconic heart logo.

Whether you’re a 10-year veteran or new to AMI, let MR PORTER be your guide as we select 12 items from its new season worthy of your consideration.

01.

The hybrid cardigan

This cardigan (or shirt jacket, depending on how you prefer to label these things) is a prime example of what AMI does so well. Cut from a super-soft blend of wool and cashmere, it’s as comfy as your favourite cardie, but without any of the slouchy connotations. Quite the contrary, in fact: it’s rather smart. Do yourself a favour and don’t keep this one for your WFH wardrobe.

02.

The black V-neck sweater

The humble V-neck sweater gets a contemporary makeover here with an oversized fit, a deep V and thick ribbing along the neckline that resembles that of an old-school cricket sweater. And if you’re wondering what sort of cricket team would line up in all black, well, the name’s stitched right there on the hip.

03.

The trans-seasonal denim overshirt

Occupying a happy halfway house between denim jacket and chambray shirt, this denim overshirt is a great option for those capricious in-between months when the weather can’t quite make its mind up. It’s not just a practical choice, either – the two patch pockets on the chest, which look like they’ve been transplanted from the back of a pair of jeans, add a bit of visual flair, too.

04.

The boxy logo T-shirt

If you’re familiar with AMI then you’ll no doubt recognise its logo, a letter “A” topped with a heart known as the “Ami de Coeur”. This oversized T-shirt goes for a simple, yet just as impactful typographic logo instead. A great wardrobe staple – wear it under the brand’s black V-neck sweater or denim overshirt.

05.

The classic denim tapered jeans

With a list of style inspirations that includes Helmut Lang and Calvin Klein, you just know that Mattiussi is a big fan of the 1990s. And these jeans lend credence to that theory. In a mid-blue wash and a classic fit that tapers slightly from thigh to ankle, this is a pair that you’ll find yourself returning to again and again. A bit like season four of Friends.

06.

The chunky Derby shoe

With its lace eyelets stitched on top of the vamp, the Derby is an inherently more casual shoe than its dressier counterpart, the Oxford. Which makes it the perfect companion to AMI’s relaxed take on tailoring. This shoe dials the formality down even further with the addition of an exaggerated rubber lug sole, adding both height and heft.

07.

The cosy blanket scarf

AMI’s penchant for vibrant colours is on full display here with this alpaca-blend scarf, which comes in a mood-boosting shade of emerald green. It may be a simple garment, but a scarf is one of the most impactful ways of changing up your look. That’s especially true of this one, which really is very large indeed: it might not be clear from the picture, but with a well-placed clasp or pin you could feasibly wear it as a cape.

08.

The logo wool beanie

The trusty beanie gets the AMI treatment here with the iconic “Ami de Coeur” logo stitched in red thread standing out boldly against the neutral taupe colour of the ribbed woollen hat. It’s a simple but effective way of adding a pop of colour to your winter outfit.

09.

The logo loopback hoodie

More logo goodness from AMI in the shape of a black hooded sweatshirt, which also features the brand’s little red heart, in this case stitched on the left chest – not too far from your own. As you’d expect of the brand, it’s a cut above your garden-variety sweatshirt, with premium touches such as metallic details on the hood’s pull strings and in a satisfyingly heavyweight cotton.

10.

The trademark Oxford shirt

AMI’s streetwise take on preppy style gets some airtime here with this suave, slim-fitting Oxford shirt. An easy weekend staple that’s sure to look just as good in five years as it does right now, it comes in a subtle blue-and-white Bengal stripe that looks like the palest blue from a distance and is finished with a narrow button-down collar and the AMI logo on the chest.

11.

The cropped trousers

Bored of jeans? These black flannel trousers are a smart alternative that’s not overly formal, thanks to the cropped cut and elasticated waist. Try them with the Oxford shirt and Derby shoes above for a fuss-free weekend ensemble. Or pay homage to the brand’s autumn/winter runway show and use them as part of an all-black outfit.

12.

The logo baseball cap

As a final flourish (and another opportunity to showcase AMI’s iconic logo), we’re topping things off with a logo-stitched baseball cap. There’s something about the simplicity of the “Ami de Coeur” that makes it ideal for this sort of deployment. It’s visually interesting without being flashy – just the thing given that you’re going to wearing it on your forehead.