An Expert’s Guide To Caring For Fine Jewellery

Link Copied

5 MINUTE READ

An Expert’s Guide To Caring For Fine Jewellery

Words by Ms Avril Groom

20 November 2021

As Christie’s international head of jewellery, Mr Rahul Kadakia helped preside over the record-breaking sale of Dame Elizabeth Taylor’s jewellery a decade ago. He used to go annually to her Hollywood home to check each of her many valuable pieces for condition and damage. The actress, he said, believed that even the most valuable jewellery was made to be worn, and so due care and attention was required to keep everything well-maintained.

Very few men have jewel collections to rival Taylor’s. But in recent seasons, jewellery has taken an increasingly prominent place in menswear. And as the pieces can pile up, they deserve looking after. We think precious stones and metals last for ever – unsurprisingly when some are billions of years old – but damage and wear occur. This is easily avoided, however, by following the expert tips below.

01.

Get your storage space in order

There’s nothing sadder than jewellery languishing in a bank vault because it’s been bought for investment rather than wearing. So, if your jewellery is worth a bit, consider a small home safe that can be securely fixed. Traditional jewel boxes’ portability makes them risky; however, their padding and compartments keep items snug and separate, so the belt-and-braces option is a box inside the safe.

Even for less exalted items, Brazilian jeweller Mr Fernando Jorge suggests keeping jewellery in “a dedicated place, like a particular drawer, so it becomes second nature to put it back – it’s easily misplaced after long days and late nights. Have it padded with trays and divisions to keep pieces from piling together or keep them in their original pouch or box.” To avoid any unwanted temperature or moisture-related damage (high humidity is often the main culprit of tarnished jewellery), the London-based designer Mr Shaun Leane recommends keeping all jewellery “in a cool, dark place”.

02.

Wear it well

Multiple jewels have impact, but are not so great for the pieces themselves. Diamonds are among nature’s hardest materials, and can scratch softer stones or metals, so take care if wearing stacked or multiple rings, or loose bracelets. The same applies to hard metals like titanium if worn with gold or silver. Get acquainted with the Mohs scale of mineral hardness, to see what materials should not be allowed to hit against each other.

“Metals can be repolished, but stones can get chipped and cracked irreversibly,” says Jorge. “Put jewellery on last before you go out and take it off first when you get home, to avoid scratching.”

The American designer Ms Suzanne Kalan specialises in diamonds and coloured stones, often baguettes set at irregular angles. “Always make sure that a ring is precisely the right size so it doesn’t turn and knock on surfaces, which can eventually crack or loosen stones,” she says.

Likewise, it’s a sensible idea to remove jewellery before exercising, because you risk it tangling or knocking it. “You should also remove your jewellery when washing up, because “substances in some washing-up liquids can affect stones over time,” says Leane.

03.

Inspect it regularly

It’s easy to forget about jewels when you’re not wearing them, but take a leaf out of Taylor’s book and get good pieces professionally checked if you have any doubts. Clasps and hinges are weak spots – check regularly that the former are closing firmly and the latter are not loose. This is essential with vintage or heirloom pieces that may not have been regularly serviced.

Some necklaces have a central motif attached directly to the chain, which can be a weak point, more so if you wear multiples that can tangle together. Earring butterflies can also work loose or become less sprung over time – check on small earrings that you wear permanently.

As for gemstones, losing a serious diamond could mean a lifetime’s regret, and even replacing the small diamonds in pavé is costly, so check claws and other settings regularly to make sure they are holding the stone firmly. “Check stones by rubbing your finger gently over them,” Leane says. “Any wobble needs a professional look.”

Beaded gems, especially pearls, will also need checking in case they need restringing, and are best if knotted between each stone so they don’t scratch each other or get lost if the string breaks. It’s always sensible to insure good pieces as listed items.

04.

Keep it clean

You might not think it, but jewellery can actually get quite grubby. Finger marks, atmospheric pollution, sweat and even food particles all take their toll. My family swear by a small drop of gin (in glass with jewels, not imbibed) to revive sparklers, but there are kinder methods. “I gently clean metal jewellery like our silver and gold stacking rings once a month with a silver polishing cloth, to avoid tarnishing and to remove impurities,” says Leane.

For diamonds, sapphires or rubies, Kalan advises adding a drop of specialist jewellery cleaner to water. “Soak the piece and rub gently with a small, soft brush before patting dry with paper towels,” she says. Kalan also advises against modern ultrasonic cleaning methods: “I consider them unsafe for softer gems like emeralds or amethyst, which abrade easily.”

Some stones need even more special treatment. Pearls (yes, boys in pearls are a thing thanks to Messrs Harry Styles, Lewis Hamilton and a cohort of others) have very delicate lustre and should be gently soaked in mild, soapy water. We can’t all afford to be Cleopatra, who is said to have dissolved a pearl in vinegar and drunk it, to prove a point to Mark Antony.

05.

Travel safe

I once packed my jewellery in my suitcase, which the airline promptly lost, causing 24 hours of anxiety until we were reunited. Moral of the story: always keep jewellery in hand luggage – your jewellery can be changed even if your shirt can’t. It is also best to carry jewellery in a small travel version of your home jewel box – WOLF does long-wearing, padded leather ones.

To keep stones and metal banging together or scratching, Kalan advises keeping rings separated on the special ring roll. The same applies to bracelets or necklaces with hardstone (opaque mineral) beads; despite the name, many are relatively fragile. Jorge advocates a simple leather case, with each item packed in its own pouch. With chains, he adds, “choose your favourite one or two and wear them till you arrive. That way they won’t tangle.”

Illustration by Mr Pete Gamlen

Shine on