THE JOURNAL
Words like “esteemed” and “illustrious” fit Brioni as perfectly as one of its suits do. The Italian tailoring house can lay claim to a singular sense of authority within the world of men’s style, having hosted Italy’s first fashion show, which was held in Palazzo Pitti, Florence, in 1952. The brand was founded just seven years earlier in 1945 by master tailor Mr Nazareno Fonticoli and his business partner Mr Gaetano Savini – a fusion of technical know-how and business acumen that remains at the heart of Brioni today. Such authority and experience result in particularly well-made clothing that, after almost 80 years, still meets the needs and desires of its discerning clientele, for whom Brioni has become a byword for confidence and assuredness.
“The same balance is to be found in the Brioni process, which is based on the generosity of the time it takes to research for the best materials and to bring a piece to life”
This shows in their new AW23 collection. This assortment of formalwear, leather jackets and knitwear speak of subtlety and balance – a theme that is emphasised in a piece of literature that accompanies the collection, called Balance Of Life. It suggests that exacting craftsmanship is combined with a sense of ease, meaning the wearer’s identity can shine through. “The same balance is to be found in the Brioni process, which is based on the generosity of the time it takes to research for the best materials and to bring a piece to life.”
Brioni references how its craftspeople have journeyed to the past for this collection – mining ideas from its archives for themes that keep the historical DNA intact while bringing us into the present and off into the future. Movement. This is a worldly collection made for travel. Clothing that can take you places, as MR PORTER’s stylists – with the help of Brioni –will now demonstrate with four outfits.
01.
The formal option
Brioni man? Meet Brioni man. This is a good encapsulation of where the brand finds itself in 2023, what it stands for: effortlessness, sartorial aplomb and, well, lots of good tailoring. The double-breasted silk jacket. The Pienza trousers. The nubuck penny loafers. If you’ve somewhere to be and you need to cut a dash, this is what you really ought to wear. Note the slightly longer jacket style over a T-shirt: it’s a softer take on tailoring, but sharp as a pin, nonetheless.
02.
The casual weekday
Not everyone’s approach to casual weekday wear will be the same. But if you’ve read this far, we can assume that you will appreciate a simple polo shirt, for instance, and particularly one that’s blended with a touch of cashmere for extra softness. You might also appreciate a ribbed shaw-collar cardigan, in a shade that fades from ivory to a shadowy mushroom at the hem. Warm and relaxed: a nice state to be in.
03.
The winter warmer
When mercury drops, there’s no harm in keeping your colour palette on the neutral side – we will let Brioni explain. “The colour palette is strong on black and almost blacks, on creams and naturals, with errant accents of turquoise and tobacco. It’s a very Roman, Caravaggio-esque way to deal with colour: a chiaroscuro of sorts, brought to tactile heights by the choice of the finest wools, silks, leathers and velvets.” From the double-breasted cashmere coat to the chunky cardigan, just because you’re wrapping up for the elements it doesn’t mean you can’t master monochrome or tonal contrasts.
04.
The weekend away
Back to that idea of movement and travel, of timelessness and modernity, this look says weekend away from it all. There’s the suede blouson jacket, which can be effortlessly dressed up or down with minimal effort. And there is the endlessly wearable turtleneck, which will work just as good beneath a jacket or gilet as it will over a T-shirt. We’ve finished things off with a pair of pleated trousers, which will add depth and dimension to any look – the internal drawstring means you won’t even have to pack a belt.