THE JOURNAL
Nam prik platter at Wayla. Photograph by Ms Diana Yen, courtesy of Wayla
When a holiday arrives in New York City, the fortunate find their way out. Whether they venture north for a wooded retreat or are off to another (more tropical) island, their escape is welcomed by both them and the ones left behind. For those who stay put, the sudden reprieve, and the silence the city adopts, is a breath of fresh air. Suddenly the restaurants that typically have hours-long queues are free for walk-ins. The ones that do not accept reservations at all become uncovered gems – peaceful like a neighbourhood staple rather than a citywide favourite. Here are five restaurants, if you’re opting for a homebody holiday, that you will finally get into.
Win Son
Left: Win Son exterior. Photograph by Ms Gabi Porter, courtesy of Win Son. Right: Prawn noodles at Win Son. Photograph by Ms Laura Murray, courtesy of Win Son
Co-founded by Mr Josh Ku and Upland alumnus Mr Trigg Brown, Win Son is a delightful Taiwanese-American spot in Brooklyn’s hip East Williamsburg neighbourhood. It’s a lively fusion of both technique and cuisine. Here, the dishes are affordable – our favourite, the “flys head” (a mix of stir-fried pork shoulder, garlic chives and bird’s eye chillies), is only $15 – and the experience is something to behold. The restaurant only accepts reservations for parties of five or more and thus two-tops face queues of up to two hours. This is the opportunity to take advantage of its less-than-advantageous booking system: pick a plus-one and walk in.
159 Graham Ave, Brooklyn, NY 11206, USA
Via Carota
Left: Squid at Via Carota. Right: inside Via Carota. Photographs courtesy of Via Carota
This neighbourhood gem from a pair of James Beard Award-winning chefs offers the best homestyle Italian food in the city, surpassing 100-year-old institutions in the process. It’s neither trendy nor try-hard, and the evidence lies in its most prized dish: the Via Carota svizzerina, a bunless burger made from finely chopped steak. The dish itself outperforms its description and alongside the tonnarelli, a rich and sumptuous cacio e pepe, it comes to life. While the space is rustic, riddled with antiques and frequented primarily by devoted locals, queues here can be crushing. But, while the locals may stick around for the holiday, the first-timers flee. Now is your chance.
51 Grove St, New York, NY 10014, USA
Frenchette
Left: the bar at Frenchette. Right: Whole turbot. Photographs by Ms Melanie Dunea, courtesy of Frenchette
The James Beard Awards recognise a best new restaurant annually: 2019’s was Frenchette, a Tribeca bistro that translates historic French dishes for the 21st-century diner. The restaurant garners plenty of attention – along with lengthy waits and auction-like attempts at snagging tables. From its all-natural wine list to its savoury but succinct duck frites (crispy duck served with well-seasoned French fries), Frenchette is self-aware but oh-so-good. Even when the city calms down, this spot may not. This holiday weekend the only availability may be a table for two at lunchtime – but fear not, the midday offerings are just as award-winning.
241 W Broadway, New York, NY 10013, USA
King
Left: Guinea hen with artichokes at King. Right: the King interior. Photographs by Mr Henry Hargreaves, courtesy of King
At King, the rustic, ever-changing and hyper-seasonal French and Italian restaurant located on the corner of King Street and 6th Avenue, olive oil abounds and excellent ambience pervades. Inside, the city feels distant and your only concern is the delightful list of wines and whatever the day’s menu affords. Omnipresent is a bread dish, akin to the free kind you’d get at lesser establishments but exponentially more delightful. It’s worth ordering every time. Otherwise, divide pastas and entrées among the group, sizing up your order accordingly. Since it’s a holiday weekend and calm is in the air, the spot’s outdoor seating, which is often immediately occupied, is likely to be open – and you should ask to sit there.
18 King St, New York, NY 10014, USA
Wayla
Left: Grilled chicken at Wayla. Photograph by Ms Diana Yen, courtesy of Wayla. Right: inside Wayla. Photograph by Ms Nicole Franzen, courtesy of Wayla
Wayla boasts a trifecta of things NYC is in short supply of: outdoor seating that is off the street, Thai dishes that are rooted in country recipes rather than street food, and unabashed service. Though spacious, the outside area is in high demand and seats are limited. As such, you’re often left indoors if you pop in for dinner. It’s not a loss by any means – the bar is excellent and the dining room is textured, dark and bustling – but the larb pla tod (a whole fried branzino with mint and chillies) and the moo sarong (noodle-wrapped meatballs) are best enjoyed al fresco, with a cool breeze to calm the spice.
100 Forsyth St, New York, NY 10002, USA