THE JOURNAL
Mr Masaki Sugisaki at Dinings SW3, London. Photograph by Mr David Loftus, courtesy of Dinings SW3
Omakase is much more than a style of cooking or service. Roughly translating from Japanese as “I’ll leave it up to you”, it’s a culinary philosophy that expresses the unspoken connection between a restaurant’s chef and its guests. First rising to prominence in the 1990s during Japan’s economic boom, when a generation of newly wealthy diners who didn’t know their way around a sushi menu decided to leave it up to the chef to choose their dishes instead, omakase has grown into a global trend over the last few years as intimate, bespoke restaurant experiences have emerged as an alternative to the crisp formality of traditional fine dining.
“Omakase is all about the harmony of flavours and the connection between the chef and the guests. An omakase experience is steeped in tradition and characterised by personalised service that creates genuine warmth,” says Mr Masaki Sugisaki, owner and executive chef of London’s hotspot Dinings SW3. “The chef crafts an ingredient-led menu, and the ingredients should be sourced directly from local markets that same day. It’s a meticulous practice that preserves a variety of traditional culinary techniques.”
With dozens of omakase restaurants opening in New York and London alone in recent months, we’ve asked the Japanese culinary connoisseur to pick some of his favourites around the world – just read on.
01.
Rokusantei, Tokyo
“This is a traditional establishment and arguably one of the first of its kind,” Sugisaki says. “Its founder, Mr Rokusaburo Michiba has inspired much of my career; I haven’t had the pleasure of working with him, but I’ve leaned on his books a lot as a resource, which I still refer to. He’s classically trained, but he’s known for challenging traditions respectfully. He’s one of the first omakase chefs to create such a flexible menu. Michiba is the chef that has influenced my style of cooking at Dinings SW3 the most.”
02.
Endo at the Rotunda, London
Interior of Endo at the Rotunda, London. Photograph by Mr Peter Kociha, courtesy of KKAA
Endo Kazutoshi preparing omakase dishes at Endo at the Rotunda, London at Photograph by Mr Benjamin McMahon, courtesy of Endo at the Rotunda
“Endo Kazutoshi is a third-generation sushi master who focuses on Tokyo’s historical technique of Edomae. The restaurant space itself is really special – it’s designed by one of the most influential architects of our time, Mr Kengo Kuma. The contemporary space ties in beautifully with the menu, which is deeply rooted in Japanese history.”
03.
Sugita, Tokyo
“This restaurant is notoriously hard to book, but if you can get a spot, it’s definitely worth it. Chef Takaaki Sugita offers a true insight into the artistry of sushi making and traditional Edomae technique without having to use the most expensive varieties of fish and seafood. There’s a lot to learn from Sugita – his practice is an informative masterclass experience.”
04.
Sokyo, Sydney Australia
Salmon belly aburi, spicy daikon and chives at Sokyo, Sydney. Photograph courtesy of The Star Sydney
Interior of Sokyo, Sydney. Photograph courtesy of The Star Sydney
“Chef Chase Kojima is known for his elaborate and playful style of cooking that pushes the boundaries of Japanese culinary traditions. His omakase menu is experimental and all about creating big, punchy flavours. Australia is home to some of the world’s best seafood, so he has a lot to play with and it seems like he has a lot of fun in the process.”
05.
Shimbashu Shimizu, Tokyo
“This is another classic Edomae-style omakase restaurant. To make a booking, you have to speak Japanese and have a local phone number. The menu is dedicated to seasonal produce and known for its excellent rice. The atmosphere is pretty relaxed for an omakase counter restaurant – you feel as though you’re part of a special community.”
06.
Araki, London
Interior of The Araki, London. Photograph by Ms Lucilla Nitto, courtesy of The Araki
Otoro nigiri at The Araki, London. Photograph courtesy of The Araki
“The protege of sushi master Mr Mitshuiro Araki, Mr Marty Lau heads up the nine-seater chef’s counter between Regent Street and Savile Row. The omakase experience owes its success to the restaurant’s spot-on attention to detail and dedication towards extracting optimum flavour – it’ll make you feel as though you’ve been transported to a Tokyo omakase bar in a sitting.”