Until not long ago, approach shoes had a single job: to take you from the car park to the rock face. A purely functional handoff between hiking boots and climbing shoes, where the former were too stiff for this walk, the approach, and the latter too delicate. Today, the silhouette sits comfortably at the intersection between utility and sneaker grails, in a way very few designs do.

“It’s a natural evolution of the Gorpcore reference points,” says Samuel Skipper, Buyer at MR PORTER. They maintain that no nonsense ruggedness – everything that made technical outdoor shoes desirable as off-grid gear gained traction – but refined into a cleaner, more minimal form.

“That’s important at a time when fashion is moving towards lower-profile footwear again,” says GQ style writer Adam Cheung, who specialises in sneakers and streetwear. “They feel more wearable than a bulky hiking shoe, but they still carry that sense of purpose that people increasingly look for in their clothes.”

No longer confined to high-altitude trails, the shoe quickly found its place in the city. The design remained unchanged: a hybrid sole combining friction rubber with hiking boot stability, an ankle collar that provides support without restriction.

The shift instead came in its cultural footing, who wore it and why. Here, a number of routes converged in the same grid reference. From the gradual loosening of dress codes and occasion dressing to outdoors specialist brands slowly moving into the wider style and lifestyle spaces. Or for the general appetite for horizontal pieces – staples that no longer serve a single purpose.

The most disparate design philosophies have landed on the shape. The LOEWE Grip – recently launched on MR PORTER – is a standout example of the high-end take on the silhouette. See also Prada’s Speedrocks. Then there’s Korean favourite Amomento’s all-black pair, which uses vibram outsoles. Diemme, Officine Creative and Moncler have also each entered the field with their own. So has outdoor specialist Keen. And Village PM, whose high-performance styles draw inspiration from the skateboard world.

“The long lacing systems, rubber toe protection and climbing heritage are all distinctive design details,” Cheung says. “But they’re subtle enough to reinterpret through a luxury lens. Unlike some performance products that are packed with visible tech, approach shoes are relatively simple. Luxury brands tend to like that because it allows materials, craftsmanship and proportion to take centre stage.”

What makes them particularly appealing as an everyday choice compared to other specialist sneakers is their ability to add a functional edge without overwhelming an outfit. You can wear them with carpenter cargos or jeans, but they won’t look out of place with a sharper pleated pant and a button-up.

“I like to go for a marl sock with them,” says Kit Swann, MR PORTER’s Fashion Editor. “The speckled knit is a nice contrast to most sleek approach shoe designs and it's even better if you can pair the flecks with the shoe.”

Now, the question is whether the approach shoe sticks around and becomes a staple in our footwear rota. But our demand for pieces that move with you between settings and even terrains signals a changing landscape for menswear.