The New Rules Of Country Dressing

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The New Rules Of Country Dressing

Words by Mansel Fletcher

10 hours ago

In recent years, country life has changed. And so, we’re updating our guidance on what to wear when venturing beyond the metropolis for the weekend. Back in the 2010s, dressing for the country was still governed by ideas that were more Downton than downtown, long after old-fashioned rural lifestyles had gone from feeling aspirational to looking anachronistic. What has happened since? A combination of the pandemic, the mania around England’s Cotswolds, full-fibre broadband, remote working and the cost of urban property has produced a demographic shift – and you can now lead a 21st-century life in the country.

Now people who are opening a coffee roastery, founding an outdoor clothing brand or developing a breath-based wellness programme may decide to do so in the provinces. The result is that a weekend in the country is more unpredictable than it once was. It’s less likely to involve pheasant shooting and more likely to involve some serious hiking, a trip to an outdoor sauna or a visit to an art gallery.

With this, the country look – and silhouette – has changed, too. Where once the rural barista might have squeezed into super-slim jeans and a tight buffalo-check coat, now he’s likely wearing loose Japanese climbing trousers and a big Carhartt WIP chore jacket. The look might not be cutting edge, but it is catching up.

So, what do you need to pack? Your host will hopefully let you know if he or she is planning to put you on a golf course, a bike saddle or a padel court (yes, they have padel courts at the smartest country houses), but, in any case, be ready for action. At minimum you need a pair of outdoor shoes that can withstand a long walk over rough, wet ground. We suggest a handsome pair of rugged hiking boots – if your shoes or sneakers are not up to the task, sympathy will be in short supply. You might also pack some lightweight loafers or slippers, to wear inside, because muddy boots will need to be removed at the back door.

When it comes to choosing coats, remember that your presence on an invigorating dog walk or a tour of the farm may be mandatory regardless of the weather. Consider something explicitly waterproof if rain is forecast, or a quilted jacket for warmth. Bear in mind, though, that many goose-down jackets will not survive even a superficial encounter with either a bramble bush or a barbed-wire fence. It’s better to layer clothing, so that if you heat up, you can tie your sweater around your waist or carry your jacket. A wool gilet, preferably with a funnel neck, will be useful because you can also wear it inside.

The texture of clothes really affects whether they look right. Brushed-cotton shirts are ideal and feel warmer than smooth poplin ones. However, washed denim and Oxford-cotton shirts are also appropriate. If you want to make a statement, turbo-charge this comfy logic with a shearling piece or hint at it with a sheepskin collar.

This leads us to woollen sweaters. Leave fine, solid-coloured knitwear in town and instead reach for more substantial jumpers. Whether that’s ribbed knits, the deep tones of melange colours or the peerless texture of baby cashmere, choose pullovers with a bit of character.

Softness and texture shouldn’t be restricted to your top half. Corduroy trousers have a relaxing ease about them – and look great with brown leather or suede boots. Meanwhile, wool flannel trousers combine comfort with a formality that’s appropriate come dinnertime. Whether they’re cords or flannels, take one more pair than you expect to need, in case they get wet in the rain.

When it comes to colours, particularly in the low light of winter, muted shades work best. Look for the palette you’ll see out the window – blues, browns, greens and taupes. These look sympathetic given the environment and will go some way to disguising the mud that will inevitably get on your clothes at some point over the weekend. Patterns play a role here because they, too, disguise marks. Wear them with restraint: pair a checked shirt with a plain jacket or a patterned sweater with a calmer pair of trousers.

What else do you need? Perhaps a big scarf or even a throw you could use if your bedroom is chilly. Pack a cashmere beanie, some chunky woollen socks and some snacks, because you can’t rely on your host to provide your favourite protein bars. And something physical to read, in case the Wi-Fi is playing up. Add a wash bag and that’s it. Have a great weekend.

  1. Arrive on time so that catering arrangements aren’t disrupted and make your departure time clear for the same reason.

  2. If your host is hard at work in the kitchen, either pitch in to help, or absent yourself to give them some space.

  3. Pay attention to the location of your host’s dog and don’t inadvertently let it outside. If you do, tell someone.

  4. Bring a gift that feels like a treat, whether that’s good champagne or artisanal olive oil. Cut flowers are difficult, because they make less sense in a rural environment.

  5. Remember to leave a tip for your host’s housekeeper, who will be tidying up after you on Monday morning (£20 should do it).