THE JOURNAL
“I like to think that we take an honest approach to making clothes,” Oliver Spencer says, showing MR PORTER around his design studio, just off the picturesque cobbles of Lamb’s Conduit Street in central London. “The type of person who comes to us typically knows what they’re looking for, and I want them to feel that it’s been made well and with real care and thought.”
Having started out selling vintage coats from a stall on Portobello Market, Spencer has been running his namesake label since 2002 and was one of MR PORTER’s founding designers. He makes things that you want to wear: the ideal soft-shouldered suit with a bit of a workwear influence; trousers that sit just right; a great winter coat.
Below, he talks us through five of his favourite pieces for this winter.
01. The big coat
“I want my coats to be a little bit oversized, very relaxed and easy to wear,” Spencer says. “We’re getting into proper coat territory now, aren’t we? Our big coat is made in England, which isn’t necessarily the easiest thing to do, but it’s worth it to us. It has this really warm, almost spongy texture that’s great for winter.
“Recently, I’ve been quite obsessed with brown and warmer, tonal colours, and I also want my coats to be as comfortable as a dressing gown. A dressing gown that you can go outside in.”
02. The Norton leather jacket
“I’ve been seeing a lot of 1970s influences around and it feels like the leather jacket is having a bit of a moment. We’ve been working on this one for ages. I didn’t want it to look shiny or too new; it has to have more of that vintage feel – you’ve got a bit of [Bob] Dylan in there.
“The Norton is unstructured, and we’ve made it in this incredible cut of soft leather that I can really see ageing well the more you wear it. I wanted to give it a slightly cropped, blouson style, so it’s a bit rock’n’roll, but also smart and easy to wear.”
03. The Graves knit
“My feelings towards a V-neck are getting stronger and stronger, especially a vest like our Graves knit. It looks great with an easy Oxford or brushed cotton shirt, and with a simple white T-shirt underneath, too. It dresses down and looks less fusty that way. I like to chuck it on with a pair of jeans at the weekend.
“I’ve seen a lot of guys getting into gilets, but I think this is a much better version, that sort of in-between piece of knitwear. This one is made from baby alpaca wool, so it’s incredibly soft and warm.”
04. The Morton trousers
“I like to have a bit of fun with texture through the winter. I’m usually found in a pair of cords at this time of year, but these wool pleats have such a brilliant weight and drape to them that they’ve become a new favourite. They move really nicely, they feel substantial, and they’ve got that soft, nod-to-tradition texture that works with almost anything.”
05. The Westbury suit jacket
“There’s something very 1970s and effortlessly chic about winter tailoring. Our Westbury jacket has that easy, slightly louche, tailored vibe with its subtle pinstripe and wide lapels. I love the idea of mixing this with a mohair knit or one of our V-necks as it takes the formality out of the stripe and makes it feel lived-in, and a bit playful.”