THE JOURNAL

Photograph by Ms Heather Taylor
Part one of MR PORTER’s course-by-course guide to a delicious festive feast.
The most anticipated meal of the year is not without its potential pitfalls. Nobody wants to succumb to soggy sprouts or too-dry turkey, but drinking before noon, an overcrowded oven and fraying family tempers can mean your food turns out to be more Fawlty Towers than five-star. To help you cook like a pro this year, we asked some of the country’s most accomplished chefs for some expert guidance. Over the next five weeks, they’ll each share a recipe for an element of Christmas dinner, helping you create a feast your guests will remember long after the tree has shed its needles.
First up, Mr Nicholas Balfe, chef director of London’s Salon and its recently opened sister site, Levan. Inspired by the Parisian neo-bistro movement, both restaurants serve food with a focus on impeccably sourced ingredients prepared in simple but inventive ways. Think cod crudo with grapefruit and tarragon, or Old Spot pork with sweet potato and miso. “My style is vaguely modern European, with a strong Mediterranean influence, plus some Nordic ideas and the odd touch from further afield, but all interpreted through the lens of the British seasons,” says Mr Balfe.
For the first course in this ultimate Christmas feast, Mr Balfe has created a bright starter of burrata with clementine, radicchio and candied walnuts. “In summer, my food is much lighter and fresher, while it tends to be more hearty and indulgent during the winter,” he says. “This dish oddly represents both ends of that spectrum. It’s delicious and interesting, but isn’t going to cause the cook any stress on what’s already a busy day in the kitchen. It’s a real crowd-pleaser for your Christmas meal. Burrata always feels a bit special, and it’s rare to find someone who doesn’t swoon a little bit at that oozing, gooey interior.”
Mr Balfe’s dish is all about flavours that attune perfectly to one another, with rich burrata, sharp, zesty clementines, bitter radicchio and butterscotch-sweet candied walnuts. “The creaminess of the burrata lends itself to the other zingy and acidic flavours on the plate,” he says. The dish also works because it’s not overly rich. “It will tee you up nicely for what’s likely to be a hefty main course with lots of trimmings,” says Mr Balfe.
Since this is a relatively simple dish, it’s worth sourcing your ingredients carefully. “Burrata is available in delis, specialist food stores and some supermarkets,” he says. “If you can’t find it, then good-quality mozzarella will do. Radicchio can be trickier to track down, but a decent greengrocer or farmer’s market should have some.” In terms of presentation, he says, “it’s a pretty rustic dish, so I wouldn’t worry too much about making it look fancy. The colours are great and will bounce off one another, so just pile up on individual plates or a sharing platter and enjoy.”
And the perfect wine to serve alongside? “Go for a skin-contact pinot gris,” suggests Mr Balfe. “We have a great one on the list at Levan by Julien Altaber, of the Sextant winery, called Ma Ma Mia 2017. It has a zesty acidity with a rich finish, and will work brilliantly with the rich burrata.”
If you’re taking the reins in the kitchen this year, Mr Balfe says it’s all about keeping your culinary cool. “Plan your prep well in advance and work out what you can do ahead of time,” he says. This includes the candied walnuts and the dressing, both of which can be done one or two days in advance. “Make life as easy for yourself as possible on Christmas Day. Rope in someone to be your sous chef, have a couple of gin and tonics, and enjoy it.”
Mr Nicholas Balfe’s Christmas starter
Burrata, clementine, radicchio and candied walnuts
Serves 8
Ingredients
100g caster sugar 15g water 100g walnuts 200ml orange juice 20ml sherry vinegar 200ml olive oil 4 whole clementines 1 head of radicchio 4 burratas, 100g each (or use best-quality mozzarella) Sea salt and black pepper A handful of fresh dill fronds

Method
First, make the candied walnuts. Place the sugar and water in a large frying pan and stir to combine. Line a heatproof tray with a silicone mat or greaseproof paper. Place over a medium heat and cook without stirring until the sugar caramelises. When it reaches a deep golden colour, add the walnuts, turn the heat off, stir to combine and transfer everything to the lined tray. Set aside to cool, then roughly chop into small pieces. Store in a bone-dry airtight container until needed.
To make the dressing, put the orange juice in a saucepan over a medium heat. Bring to the boil and reduce by two thirds, so it’s thick and viscous. Whisk in the sherry vinegar and olive oil. Set aside.
When you’re ready to serve, segment the clementines, then carefully remove the membrane so you’re just left with the flesh. Tear the radicchio leaves into credit card-sized pieces. Toss together with the dressing, then divide between eight plates or pile onto a platter.
Tear the burratas in half, divide between the plates or platter and season with sea salt and pepper. Drizzle over a little more of the dressing, scatter over the walnuts and dill and serve immediately.
Stocking fillers

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