Was the runway full of grungy nods to the end of the world, or have we just been so obsessed with The Last Of Us that we’re seeing the apocalypse in every mismatched flannel shirt and distressed sweater? Probably a bit of both, but there’s no denying that grunge was a big influence on menswear this season, with dirty-looking jeans and Mr Kurt Cobain-esque checks on display at EgonLab and Gucci, plus cobweb sweaters at Dries Van Noten. Givenchy perhaps did grunginess best, with Frankenstein-style layers of camo, sweats and denim; it was true “grab what you can and run” dressing. Maybe it’s a statement on how chaotic the world is, but all those separate parts felt cohesive.

Big, bodacious and double-breasted, with poke-your-eye-out peak lapels to boot, the coats of this season were huge. SAINT LAURENT gave the most theatrical version, a striped wool number with padded shoulders that swooped along the floor with the gravitas of a dark magician’s cloak. More wearable iterations abounded at AMI PARIS, Auralee and Emporio Armani, but were no less impactful, sticking to a somber palette of beige, cream and charcoal grey that made them look showy but still sophisticated.

Here’s an easy fashion trend to follow: take your clothes off. Nudity is trending in menswear right now, or, at least, a hint of it. As well as the shirtless suit taking over the red carpet, sternums were also on show on the runway. Rick Owens, Fendi and Dolce & Gabbana showed funereal suits with nothing underneath (save for the odd statement necklace), while Prada presented excellent, statement-collar cardigans that were worn unbuttoned and sans shirt. It was Mr Jonathan Anderson, however, who really ran with it. At LOEWE, he showed slouchy, torso-baring tailoring, and at his own label JW Anderson, he sent models down the runway holding bolts of fabric in nothing but their smalls.

American luxury is evolving. “Ametora” – the Japanese portmanteau for “American traditional style” took over the runway this season, suitably from American and Japanese brands such as Auralee, AMIRI, KENZO and Kolor, who all showed elements of Ivy League-style prep updated for now. BODE, the current darling American brand, showed a collection of crunchy corduroy suits, folkish embroidery and a pastoral sweater that featured an image of a cow, which is sure to be a hit among the brand’s steadily growing fanbase.

Vroom vroom – the biker is big in menswear right now. Not the hirsute, scotch-swilling kind, but a sleeker, smoother version; a raconteur who frequents airport lounges more than he does dive bars and owns a spanking-new Harley-Davidson, but seldom rides it. In other words, sleek, expensive-looking leather jackets are trending, courtesy of louche, billowing trousers at Lemaire, AMI PARIS and AMIRI, while 1017 ALYX 9SM committed to the full look with studded-knee leather pants.

Star Trekking across the runway this season was a host of tailoring that would look right at home in a Gattaca reboot. Featuring nearly double-breasted blazers sans lapels at Louis Vuitton – and with the collar wrapped and pinned across the neck USS Enterprise-style at Dior – the suiting felt confidently futuristic, in a palette of Dune beige and gunmetal grey. The restrained colours and relaxed-yet-sharp silhouettes at Prada were also suitably sci-fi, while Anderson’s pattern-cutting genius at LOEWE yielded a curved, structured jacket with upturned lapels.

Size matters for AW23 – at least when it comes to your scarf. Ankle-brushing neckwear was all the rage at Fendi and Maison Mihara Yasuhiro, while Giorgio Armani proffered a cosy luxe blanket cape and French designer Ludovic de Saint Sernin showed a black scarf slung across the model’s neck like a feather boa. Across the board the scarves were big – the centre of the outfit rather than a mere accessory. We’re not sure whether giant-scarf legend Mr Lenny Kravitz was on any of these designers’ mood boards this season, but that famous, memed to death look from 2012 was clearly ahead of its time.