THE JOURNAL

Some brands prefer to whisper rather than shout. No splashy campaigns or celebrity endorsements. No gimmicks, fuss or frills. Just thoughtfully designed, exquisitely crafted clothes that are built to last a lifetime. The problem, of course, is that sometimes they whisper so quietly that it’s easy to lose them in the fashion melee. But not to worry: this season, we’re giving seven underrated, under-the-radar labels the love and attention they deserve.
01.
Umit Benan B+

Best for: contemporary, elevated essentials
We don’t know why one-time filmmaker Mr Umit Benan decided to make a foray into fashion, but, boy, are we glad he did. If not, we’d never have been blessed with designs such as his impossibly elegant oversized Posillipo overcoat – the sort of compliment-magnet investment piece that makes everything underneath it look more expensive. Nor these straight-leg corduroy trousers, whose texture adds instant warmth and interest. And that’s merely a snapshot of the elevated essentials on offer from Umit Benan B+, which also delivers silk shirts, cashmere rollnecks and an array of other luxurious classics in shades of chocolate brown, cream and khaki. Better yet, they’re crafted at Italian heritage label Caruso’s factory, so you can rest assured they’re as high-quality as they are handsome.
02.
Allude

Best for: cashmere knits
It’s always a joy to stumble on brands that narrow in on one category and strive to do it brilliantly. That’s the approach that German label Allude takes, with the focus being solely on knitwear. Best of all, almost every design features its signature cashmere, from this olive-green rollneck sweater, which is made entirely of the stuff, to its snug shawl-collar cardigan that blends the fibre with wool. In short: expect softer-than-soft staples that only get better with each wear.
03.
Massimo Alba

Best for: sumptuous fabrics
If you prize exquisite fabrics above all, be sure not to sleep on Massimo Alba. Founded back in 2006 by – you guessed it – Mr Massimo Alba, who’s been toiling away in the industry since the 1980s, the label is prone to adding a splash of cashmere, mohair or silk to even the most low-key basics. Bar the odd check and a most tasteful take on tie-dye, it’s mostly simple, solid hues you’ll find here. And while the label certainly isn’t afraid to veer into the bolder end of the colour spectrum, it’s typically in the most dialled-down, wearable way, as this mohair and silk-blend cardigan and cotton-jersey T-shirt prove.
04.
Hartford

Best for: flannels and fleeces
Hartford may have roots in Paris, but the brand has an all-American quality about it. That might be something to do with its love for the lumberjack look, with flannel popping up on outerwear pieces as well as the classic shirt silhouette. In fact, most of Hartford’s wares have a laid-back, outdoorsy element to them, although in sophisticated fabrics and pared-back, logo-free designs that mean they won’t look out of place in more urban settings. This navy cotton-corduroy fleece gilet, which is ideal for cold-weather layering, is a case in point.
05.
Thom Sweeney

Best for: attention to detail
Before branching out with their own ready-to-wear menswear label, British designers Messrs Thom Whidett and Luke Sweeney trained on London’s prestigious Savile Row. However, traditional tailoring is just a fraction of what the label has to offer, with it pieces spanning cashmere beanies, mohair half-zip sweaters and streamlined sneakers in supple suede. As it happens, it’s the pair’s more casual, off-duty creations that have grabbed our attention this season – namely this forest-green bomber jacket spun from a blend of wool and cashmere, and the sort of goes-with-everything grey cashmere rollneck that you’ll get endless wear out of. However, you can rest assured that famous Savile Row precision and attention to detail is applied across the board.
06.
Danton

Best for: sporty silhouettes
With more than nine decades of clothes-making nous behind it, it’s safe to say Danton knows a thing or two about creating pieces that weather the test of the time, But don’t let its age fool you into thinking it’s fusty. Au contraire, the heritage French-founded label trades in laid-back, sporty silhouettes and sleek technical gear – made in Japan, no less. Self-proclaimed minimalists will delight in the brand’s tight colour palette – mostly greys, creams and blacks, which allow for foolproof layering, both with each other and the pieces already in your wardrobe. Highlights include its belted cotton-corduroy trousers, which will add texture and detail to pared-back outfits, as well as a teddy bear-ish fleece hoodie that delivers unbeatable warmth.
07.
De Petrillo

Best for: Italian craftsmanship
Much like Thom Sweeney’s founders, Mr Benedetto de Petrillo got his design grounding in the world of tailoring before setting up his Naples-based namesake label in 2006. No surprise, then, that his background in precision cutting is evident in his elegant suit jackets and – one of our personal favourites – this military-inspired herringbone coat in a blend of cashmere and virgin wool. We’re also admirers of these crisp pleated cotton-twill trousers, which will add a touch of levity to your winter wardrobe and break up a palette of moody hues. Frankly, though, you could add just about anything from the label to your basket and be sure you’re onto a winner.