THE JOURNAL
On paper, men’s blazers should conjure the same reaction as florals in spring. Predictable. Sensible. Even the not-really-a-blazer guy will have one reserved for weddings and work, before quietly returning it to the back of the wardrobe. But in recent years, something’s shifted. The blazer has slipped free of its formal straitjacket and stepped into a more relaxed space.
Today, wearing a blazer isn’t necessarily about looking smart, it’s more about how it fits into real life. The question now isn’t whether you should wear one, but how to do so without looking like you’ve tried too hard.
Dating back to the 19th century, the blazer was originally introduced for boating sports and naval services. At this time, they were not the tailored style we know today, but a loose-fitting, light fabric often in bright colours. It wasn’t until the early 1900s that it acquired a formal structure, before emerging as a cornerstone of a gentleman’s post-war wardrobe.
By the late 1980s, this former status piece had finally broken into the mainstream; its moment had arrived. This was one of the first times that fashion was led by culture and not occasion, as stars like Michael Jordan and Richard Gere popularised the oversized blazer via power suits and styling in casual contexts.
“Today’s blazer is versatile. It can anchor a denim outfit or elevate something as utilitarian as cargo trousers”
These exaggerated proportions and relaxed shapes have had a resurgence in recent years and it’s easy to understand why. The beauty of this design is that it affords ultimate versatility, so it can be worn by all and fit perfectly, even if you don’t have the same measurements as Jordan.
That isn’t to say the functional blazer is out entirely, far from it; you just relax the styling. The Wall Street types can still look forward to those immaculately tailored, double-breasted, Patrick Bateman-style pieces. They still have a place at formal events, but now you’ll only secure one button instead of all.
It’s fair to say that, right now, the blazer feels more democratic than ever. At a glance, you can see just how prevalent and varied this layer is today, as seen across LEMAIRE, SAINT LAURENT, The Row, Dries Van Noten and AMIRI runways.
With the net cast so wide, knowing where to start can be overwhelming, but take these notes and you’ll get it right every time – without looking like you thought about it.
01. Take it up a size
If you feel like a child playing dress up in their parents’ clothes, you’ve got the right size. The easiest way to instantly modernise your blazer (and even your look entirely) is by selecting an oversized piece.
This aesthetic takes you away from the traditional stiff formality and allows for more expressive layering and comfort. Designs from SAINT LAURENT – think colour-soaked power suits – to TOM FORD and LEMAIRE’s easy, fluid tailoring lean heavily into this proportion shift.
The trick is knowing how to use the extra room. Start with unfussy foundations – a plain T-shirt or something equally lightweight – then build with softer layers such as a cardigan to achieve a look that feels intentional but not overly formulated. If you’re pairing your blazer with sharper elements like a shirt or tailored trousers, opt for one with roomier shoulders to balance the structured shapes.
02. Mix it in casually
Styling your blazer with your casual wardrobe is the most “now” thing you can do. “The beauty of today’s blazer is its versatility,” says Rachel O-Williams, Assistant Personal Shopper at MR PORTER. “It can anchor an outfit when paired with denim or add an elevated edge to something as utilitarian as cargo trousers.”
Designers have left no styling stone unturned. Dries Van Noten paired blazers with sports shorts, sarongs and pyjama-style trousers, while Valentino Garavani layered classic pinstripes over zip-through funnel-neck knits, and AMI PARIS grounded its designs with loose jeans. Take their lead and try wearing a blazer over a tank or lightweight knit with tailored shorts on warmer days. It’s a subtle nod to the runway without feeling costume-like.
You can also lean into casual pairings with your shoe and accessory choices. Sneakers and sandals can quietly shift the tone, while loafers will sharpen the look without pushing it back into formal territory. Finish your look with a cap, or understated jewellery, and treat the blazer as part of your everyday rotation, not the centrepiece. Dress it down and you can’t go wrong.
03. Relax on the shape and fabrics
The most wearable options now favour drapey fabrics and softer construction rather than strict, fitted tailoring. Designers such as Studio Nicholson have showcased versions with relaxed silhouettes and soft materials that encourage a natural drape.
“Today’s blazer doesn’t demand a suit to feel complete – that’s the whole point,” O-Williams says. “Instead, it drapes, hangs and moves with the body. It’s less about rigid structure and embraces a certain nonchalance, relaxed through the shoulders, or even slightly cropped to sit at the waist in an intentional way. It’s a move away from the traditional, boardroom-bound silhouette and leans into something that feels expressive.”
This kind of construction works just as well with shirting as it does a simple tee. In summer, it’s equally at home with a polished shoe as it is with a sandal. Alternatively, you can look for boxy cuts that naturally lean into soft, roomy proportions and wear it almost like an overshirt instead of a jacket.
04. Never all the buttons
Buttoning is more about attitude than etiquette. Whether single- or double-breasted, fastening more than one or two buttons instantly pulls it back into formal territory. The main reason the blazer is so popular today is that it has been stripped of its duty as a formal item.
If you want to achieve a bit of structure, you can fasten a button; approach a double-breasted style by buttoning up the lowest one. For a little edge, take your cue from AMI PARIS and secure the top two buttons, leaving the lower half to flare out. When it comes to blazers, you really can’t get more modern than that.