Double denim is one of menswear’s great dividers. The sartorial soulmate of pineapple on pizza or – shudder – no-show socks. And maybe that’s part of the fun. “I both condone double denim and also quite enjoy the scathing attitude it sometimes evokes,” says Amy Leverton, author of Denim Dudes, her comprehensive account of denim obsessives. “Double denim works in the same way that denim does in general: through its versatility and universal appeal,” she says.

Whether you want to evoke the ruggedness of a Wisconsin ranch owner or channel serial double-denim wearer A$AP Rocky, there’s a plethora of ways to do it. Here’s how.

Also known as the Texan Tuxedo, the denim jacket and jeans look is the most straightforward on the list. To make sure it works well, look for pieces with subtle differentiating details, like the contrasting corduroy collar on this Loro Piana jacket and matching jeans.

A crisp white tee will always look the part. To avoid looking too much like a cowherd – albeit a luxuriously dressed one – opt for a robust pair of loafers, such as these from Drake’s.

“The loafer works because it’s unexpected,” says stylist Mark Holmes, whose clients have included Willem Dafoe and Lakeith Stanfield. “I love doing a chunky black loafer and a white sock on a double-denim look. No one will accuse you of looking like a cowboy with that.”

Sometimes, however, looking like a cowboy (at least a little bit) is the goal. KAPITAL is the name to know – the cult Japanese brand does Americana better than most US labels. This lightweight denim shirt from the brand has a curved yoke and pockets in a style typical of western shirts and is paired here with a wide-leg pair of jeans from Etro and Chelsea boots from Edward Green.

What ties everything together, though, is the belt by Nudie Jeans, with its bold silver buckle worthy of a spaghetti western. “A great belt or belt buckle is a way to give your look a little nudge into cosplay without embarrassing yourself,” Leverton says.

Want to keep your look contemporary but still classic? Pair an oversized denim jacket with some wide-leg jeans. For a lesson in how to do it well, look to Entire Studios. For their most recent collection, the Los Angeles-based brand took classic selvedge denim and gave it an intentionally supersized silhouette.

“It was about tapping into a classic double denim style, but flipped through the lens of how we approach shape and proportion,” says Sebastian Hunt, the brand’s co-founder. “The shapes balance each other out. Big top, wide leg – the whole look feels relaxed but still put together.”

When putting together a double-denim fit, pay attention to how the shades of the top and bottom work together. “Either match a similar wash together or do something drastically different,” Holmes says. “It will get really tricky if the washes are close, but not close enough. You need something very similar or very different to make it look cool.”

Case in point: this dark pair of jeans from Cherry Los Angeles paired with a light blue denim shirt from Fear of God. The result is chilled out but intentional – something all good outfits should be.

Whether it’s the outline of your wallet in the back pocket or a sun-bleached fade, a good pair of jeans tells a story. “No article of clothing shows its character and age better than denim,” Holmes says.

Still, not everyone has time to invest decades of wear into their jeans. This full Polo Ralph Lauren look provides a handy shortcut, thanks to the faded patina of the jacket and jeans. A sidenote: Ralph Lauren himself is worth putting on your mood board for some double-denim inspiration. “He looks great in double denim in a very dad-at-the-lake-house-on-a-Saturday kind of way,” Leverton says.

What’s more contentious than double denim? White double denim. To do it well, keep it relaxed and summery (a pair of shorts instead of jeans, like these from A.P.C., can be a good way to go).

“You don’t want to go full Backstreet Boys,” Holmes says. To swerve any unintentional 1990s throwbacks, avoid white sneakers and go for a T-shirt or shoes in tonal shades. “With white denim, it’s good to ground the look with neutrals. It helps offset the all-white thing,” Holmes says.

We think Church’s fisherman sandals and Mr P.’s Compton sunglasses, made in collaboration with Cubitts, in brown are spot on.