THE JOURNAL

Mr Tom Ford, New York, November 2016. Photograph by Mr Stephen Lovekin/REX Shutterstock
From Mr Tom Ford to Mr David Beckham, here are the men to take notes from.
Style “rules” can be useful guidelines to help you dress better, but somewhere there’s an example of every single one being broken with aplomb. Ultimately, such maxims are like The Matrix: there is no spoon, and if you’re Mr Keanu Reeves then you can do what you like. Except wear black leather trench coats, of course – that’s “the one” inviolable law.
However, to tell you that the major key to looking stylish is confidence, while true, would be just as irritating as telling you to focus on that elusive characteristic while dating or in a job interview. (Thanks. For. That.) More helpfully, there are some identifiable traits of stylish men that are easier to adopt. Think of these as the exception to the rule about rules.

They don’t chase fleeting trends

Mr Alasdhair Willis stands out from the crowd and serves up something a little bit different at the July 2014 Wimbledon Championships, in the form of blue shorts and a beige peak lapel jacket. Photograph by Mr Karwai Tang/Getty Images
Whether they cleave faithfully to recognised classics, like hat-wearing author Mr Gay Talese, or give them their own modern twist, like Mr Alasdhair Willis, stylish men march to the beat of their own drum. That may or may not synch with what’s showing on the catwalk, but they’re not about to change tempo – and more often than not, fashion falls in step with them when they wind up on a designer’s mood board. That doesn’t mean you can’t ever be on-the-button style-wise. But before you jump on a seasonal bandwagon, ask yourself two questions. Firstly, does it look good on you? And secondly, will it still look good in six months when the trend winds change direction? As the always elegant Mr Yves Saint Laurent so perspicuously distilled it: “Fashions fade; style is eternal”.
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They wear a uniform

Mr Tom Ford looking typically disheveled at the L’Oreal Paris Women of Worth event, New York, November 2016. Photograph by Mr Stephen Lovekin/REX Shutterstock
Following on from the above, stylish men find what works for them and stick to it. Sometimes stringently so – think of Mr Tom Ford’s trademark black suit and white shirt. “I have a uniform,” he told The Daily Telegraph. “It’s easy: I get up in the morning and I put on that uniform.” Even while directing his nominated new film Nocturnal Animals. Yes, he donned a cowboy hat and boots for the scenes set in Texas, but even variations on a theme can still be considered a “uniform”. It’s not about always dressing exactly the same way so much as cutting down on time spent agonising over what to wear. That way, you reduce the risk of mistakes and maintain consistency. When you find something that works for you, buy multiples.
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They know a tailor

We’re not sure where Mr Alessandro Squarzi – pictured here at Milan fashion week in February 2014 – gets his suits fitted, but his tailor clearly has supernatural abilities. Answers on a postcard, please. Photograph by Mr YoungJun Koo/Lickerish
Not necessarily in the Savile Row sense, although that certainly helps: it could just be a local dry-cleaner who will also take up your trousers for an extra tenner. The point is that fit is paramount. And unless you’re a professional fit model – the human mannequins on which designers construct their garments – then off-the-peg clothes are unlikely to be built to the unique specifications of your body. If you’re looking for somewhere to start, your suit is the most obvious thing to get altered. And, if you need tips, check out the master of Italian tailoring Mr Alessandro Squarzi, above. However much you spend initially, getting things tweaked will make all the difference. They say that an inch is a mile in menswear, and they’re not far wrong. Even Mr Steve McQueen, that deathless icon of effortless style, used to get his jeans tailored to better flatter his posterior. Which proves that “effortless” style is really anything but (or butt).
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They invest in wardrobe fundamentals

Mr David Beckham, out and about in NYC with his wife Ms Victoria Beckham in February 2016, shows us that he’s as good at investing in outerwear as he is at, well, just about everything else. Photograph by Mr Jackson Lee/Splash News
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Stylish men know that certain items give you more bang for your buck, and allocate their resources accordingly. Outerwear tends to be seen first and can cover a multitude of sloppy sins. (Mr David Beckham always gives great coat, and has made them the bedrock of his Kent & Curwen collection.) But the investment piece principle extends to other inter-seasonal staples, from the navy blazer to selvedge jeans and footwear. As the eminently quotable Mr Hardy Amies said, “It’s impossible to be well-dressed in cheap shoes”. And don’t overlook accessories, which are often an afterthought but can wind up seeing the most use: a good bag always adds weight, while a smart watch will dial up the most mundane ensemble. (NB: a smartwatch really won’t.)
They’re well-groomed

Apart from the fact he’s a talented actor, international sex symbol, and has great hair – we can’t imagine what Mr Jon Hamm, pictured at the Vanity Fair Party for the 88th Academy Awards in February 2016, has to smile about. Photograph by Mr Chris Delmas/Landmark Media
“Metrosexual” is not an eyelash brush that any man wants to be tarred with. But even the sharpest suit will be dulled if your attitude to grooming is more primitive than Captain Caveman’s. Conversely, regular trims and a spot of facial furniture polish will give even the most bedraggled outfit a sheen. “Some of the worst mistakes of my life have been haircuts,” confessed ringletted The Doors frontman Mr Jim Morrison; but even worse is no haircut at all. Make a monthly block-booking with your barber to maintain your edge – and we hope we don’t need to remind you to visit the dentist on a regular basis, too. As Mr James Brown said: “Hair and teeth. A man got those two things, he’s got it all.” See: Mr Jon Hamm.
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The celebrities featured in this story are not associated with and do not endorse MR PORTER or the products shown
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