THE JOURNAL
The Map Room, now the main shop floor, was once a library and housed the Royal Geographical Society’s collection of maps
With an unmatched history and intriguing new international stance,<br />Savile Row stalwart Gieves & Hawkes is the British brand to watch this year.
Asked to sum up Gieves & Hawkes’ philosophy, its chief creative officer Mr Jason Basmajian says, “The language is international, but the accent is British”. It’s a succinct way of explaining how Gieves & Hawkes, long renowned as one of London’s most impeccable tailors, has evolved into a global brand to rival the best of them, and a go-to for injecting the spirit of Savile Row into your wardrobe – whether for occasion wear or every day.
Founded in 1771, the master tailor has a storied history of producing attire for the military and the British monarchy – its first royal warrant was issued in 1809. Situated within its newly revamped store at 1 Savile Row, this impressive heritage is overwhelmingly apparent in the archive pieces that are mounted throughout (including a genuine officer’s jacket from the Battle of Waterloo), but that’s not the whole story. Because, of course, Gieves added civilian clothing to its repertoire shortly after WWI – clothing made famous by clients including Sirs Winston Churchill and Charlie Chaplin, Mr David Beckham and Princes William and Harry. Today’s collection is made with an attention to detail and uncompromising attitude to quality that is the fruit of more than 200 years of sartorial expertise.
The private areas of No.1 Savile Row are home to Gieves & Hawkes’made-to-measure and bespoke service
Gieves & Hawkes keeps every client’s bespoke patterns on fileand guards the confidentiality of its list
While clearly respectful of its unique heritage, Gieves & Hawkes has always kept one well-shod foot firmly in the present. It’s under Mr Basmajian’s expert eye (honed at iconic Italian tailoring house Brioni, where he was formerly artistic director) that the brand has evolved to comprise a full wardrobe for the modern man including a range of timelessly elegant “weekend wear” pieces (such as casual coats, polos, tees and informal shirting), which combine a gentlemanly ease with the consideration, elegance and precision cuts of Gieves’ renowned tailoring.
The art at No.1 Savile Row is by Fredrikson Stallard. They installed their Avalanche mirror above the fireplace in the front room of the townhouse
The company’s archive room reveals some of the legendary clients whohave bestowed their patronage over the years
MR PORTER is delighted to be stocking the brand’s full wardrobe for the first time. Developing Mr Basmajian’s sharp, contemporary vision for the house, the spring/ summer 2015 collection is inspired by the colours and memories of a British summertime spent on the coast. Among many standout pieces complementing the latest in Gieves’ tailoring – a slightly softened take on the archetypal Savile Row silhouette – are motorcycle jackets in sky-blue suede, fine-gauge cashmere for summer evenings and navy twill totes finished with crocodile skin.
The fireplace on the first floor is by Mr William Kent. This room is usedas a private dining room and showroom
The elevation of the brand’s global flagship store took a yearand was completed in October 2014
The language is international,but the accent is British
It’s an offering that does justice to the house’s history as a benchmark of British style. But it’s also clothing that will work for the vicissitudes of modern life – the commute, the business trip, the city break. In short Gieves & Hawkes is going global, and that’s a good thing.