THE JOURNAL
The Cheese Bar, Seven Dials Market, London. Photograph by Mr Nic Crilly-Hargrave, courtesy of The Cheese Bar
Mr Mathew Carver is fast becoming a big cheese on the London restaurant scene. He started out selling toasted cheese sandwiches from a reconditioned ice cream van, The Cheese Truck, before opening a permanent restaurant, The Cheese Bar, in Camden. Now, he’s going bigger (and cheesier) with the opening of Pick & Cheese, a spot in the buzzy new Seven Dials Market development in London’s West End. There’s a short menu featuring those famous toasties, but the main draw is the world’s first cheese conveyor belt, where dome-covered plates of Cropwell Bishop stilton, Baron Bigod brie, and soft, creamy Irish Gubbeen – each paired with individual condiments, such as sweet and sour pineapple or sticky pear jam – move hypnotically around the circular bar at which diners perch, sipping natural wines.
“We’re hoping to shake up the idea of a traditional cheese and wine bar, and to make the amazing cheeses we have in Britain more accessible,” says Mr Carver. “Cheese should always be served at room temperature, so the belt allows us to showcase the cheeses at their best, and diners can create their own bespoke cheeseboard.”
While sampling Mr Carver’s wares, we thought we would take the opportunity to ask him for some advice on how to curate a delicious cheeseboard at home. Below, he’s picked five of his favourite cheeses and told us how to enjoy them best.
“Just be sure to keep them wrapped in the fridge in beeswax or wax paper, then bring up to room temp (ideally 14 to 15 degrees) before serving, when the flavour will express itself best,” he says. “Place the cheese on a board or a plate, in order of least to most full flavoured.”
The perfect cheeseboard
Spenwood cheese with truffled poached potatoes. Photograph by Mr Nic Crilly-Hargrave, courtesy of The Cheese Bar
Spenwood, Village Maid Cheese, Berkshire
“Sheep’s milk is a precious thing, since they are low-yield animals that are hard to keep. This is a perfect expression of the delicate flowery quality of their milk: sweet and lactic, with notes of hay. Delicious alongside poached potatoes with a hint of truffle.”
Pair with: 2018 Arbinus Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico, Ciu Ciu – Le Marche, Italy
Fellstone, Whin Yeats Dairy, Cumbria
“Produced by young couple Clare and Tom Noblet, who are trying to bring back a traditional Wensleydale, this has a tang of lemon rind and a touch of green almond, with a sharp, fresh finish. Serve with sherry-poached cherries.”
Pair with: 2018 Petillant Naturel Volume 1, Fuchs und Hase – Kamptal, Austria
Sparkenhoe Red Leicester cheese with candied chilli peppers. Photograph by Mr Nic Crilly-Hargrave, courtesy of The Cheese Bar
Sparkenhoe Red Leicester, Sparkenhoe Farm, Leicestershire
“Everyone’s used to the Red Leicester you find in supermarkets, but this is truly on another level – a British territorial done right, with a good bite in the mouth, rich brothy notes and an earthy hint of pasture. It’s great with sweet and spicy candied chilli peppers.”
Pair with: NV Cruz del Mar Amontillado, Bodegas Cesar Florido – Chipiona, Spain
Baron Bigod, Fen Farm Dairy, Suffolk
“With a silken texture, deep umami flavour and delicious mushroom finish, I think this is even better than brie de Meaux. Perfect paired with earthy mushroom duxelles.”
Pair with: 2018 Beaujolais Château Cambon – Beaujolais, France
Stilton cheese with a chocolate and oat cookie. Photograph by Mr Nic Crilly-Hargrave, courtesy of The Cheese Bar
Stilton, Cropwell Bishop Creamery, Nottinghamshire
“This is a British classic, and the pairing, with a chocolate oat cookie, has been one of our most popular so far. Rich, creamy, tangy and satisfyingly savoury.”
Pair with: 2016 Banyuls Rimage, Domaine de Valcros – East Pyrenees, France