Qatar Airways’ flight QR 921, New Zealand to Doha: 9,000 miles, 17 hours in the air. We’re ready for take-off.

Qatar Airways is one of the key players in the ultra-long-haul category, and since February 2018 has operated the world’s longest non-stop commercial flight. Flight QR 921 from Auckland in New Zealand to its Middle East hub in Doha covers 9,000 miles and crosses 10 time zones. We climbed on board to check it out.

A private escalator takes business-class passengers to the Al Mourjan Business Lounge at Doha Airport. It is among the world’s largest, at more than two-and-a-half acres, and reveals itself in hangar-like proportions, which means that it easily accommodated the economy passengers who can pay $120 for one-time access. It contains a satisfying, almost dizzying array of delis, cafes, work spaces, games rooms, daybeds and showers – everything one could wish for ahead of an aviation marathon.

While Qatar has optimised the Boeing 777-200LR’s engines and fuel tanks for this route, the plane model is seven years old and does not feature the airline’s most recent cabins. So don’t pile on expecting to lie back with an intimately acquainted friend in one of Qatar’s new Qsuites (the middle-two seats in the latest business-class cabins, launched in May, can be made up as a double). Nor does this plane feature the spacious bar of the newer Airbus A380. The cabin has 42 seats in a 2-2-2 formation. Only the window seats lack direct access to the aisle, but there’s plenty of room to hop over. Qatar is due to switch to the newer 777X before 2020.

What the 200LR’s business-class seats lack in the shiniest bells and whistles it makes up for in an overlooked feature rarely found on newer seats – a full-width foot well. Seats configured in a herringbone configuration often taper at the feet, leaving the toes of taller passengers with little wriggle room when horizontal or sleeping. When the time came to turn in, as it absolutely will on a 17-hour flight, a member of cabin crew flattened my seat and laid a plush mattress over its 78-inch pitch.

Despite the length of the flight there is no Wi-Fi, which may be a deal-breaker for business passengers. This flight would probably be the longest most of us have gone without internet access for a decade or so. It does mean that you can tear into the film selection, which has plenty of new releases. The Oryx One entertainment system was intuitive and easy to use, with a decent-quality touchscreen and more than adequate selection of film and TV.

Qatar’s Arabic mezze platter, with hummus, moutabel (aubergine dip) and tabbouleh, is just about the most perfectly proportioned dish for a plane – not too heavy, but filling all the same – so top marks for that. The airline offers an on-demand a la carte menu, with no fixed meal times. On a long flight, when the concept of time is stretched to its limit, this felt like a welcome luxury.

The cabin crew beamed from under impeccably positioned hats throughout the flight despite the rigours of the route (they work six-hour shifts, retreating to their own bunks when they can). As they prepared my bed, I took my Qatar Airways White Company cotton pyjamas to get ready. Amenity kits are by Brics, containing products from Castello Monte Vibiano Vecchio, an environmentally friendly Italian olive oil company: hydrating facial mist, lip balm and anti-aging moisturiser, plus an eye mask and earplugs.