“Aharn glam lao” – a fiery, piquant and sociable style of cuisine principally from the Isaan region and other areas in northern Thailand – roughly translates to “food to facilitate drinking”. It represents a culture in which, when it comes to food, the drinking comes first. As such – the cocktails, beers and modern wines selected by the new wave of top regional Thai restaurants in LA, London, Bangkok and New York have to be as well thought out as the spiced meats and salads. To get a taste for aharn glam lao, we spoke to the owners of three of the world’s most innovative regional Thai restaurants, and asked them for their top dish (and drink) recommendations.

Regarded as one of LA’s coolest chefs (check out @ntmrkt on Instagram), Mr Yenbamroong runs arguably one of the hippest restaurants in the city. Fans of Night + Market on Sunset Boulevard include LA Times critic Mr Jonathan Gold, Ms Lena Dunham, Mr David Chang, Mr René Redzepi and Questlove. Six years ago, against the odds and after “running his family restaurant into the ground”, he opened a site “equally as a place to go drink as well as eat – with a big wine focus”. Even now, and on the verge of his third opening, Mr Yenbamroong jokes that “Night + Market is a wine bar disguised as a Thai restaurant”. Albeit one that is considered the best in LA.

“This is our favourite summertime treat. It’s one of those high-pleasure, low-hassle dishes. There’s no trick, just use the best corn you can find. The sauce makes it extra decadent,” says Mr Yenbamroong.

• 6 ears of sweet corn, shucked
• 1 can coconut milk (approx 14 oz)
• 1/2 tbsp kosher salt
• 1/2 tbsp turmeric powder
• 1 tbsp coconut sugar 

Heat all ingredients except for corn in a small saucepan on low heat. Stir occasionally until coconut sugar is melted and ingredients are incorporated. 

Halve all the corn, lengthwise. Brush with sauce and grill until a little bit charred. Brush on a little more sauce before serving.

Pour 50ml Blanton’s Original Single-Barrel Bourbon, 25ml lemon juice, and 10ml sugar syrup over ice and shake.

Strain into wine glass. Add a splash of dry prosecco on top. Garnish with a lemon wedge.

An unlikely champion of Thai food in London, co-founder Mr Ben Chapman has previously worked as a graphic designer, music promoter and art gallerist. In 2014, he decided to open a bar. In his words, “a good late night drinking place with a vinyl player, good beer, good wine and… half a dozen Thai barbecue dishes.” Fast forward to today, and after rave reviews he’s created a new genre in London, dubbed “Nu-Thai”: “It’s a heady mix of dive-bar atmosphere and the blistering chilli, lime, fish sauce and smoke flavour profile you get in northern Thailand,” Mr Chapman says.

“These spicy, aromatic sausages are a bit of a job to make, but they're perfect with the Farmhouse Pilsner from One Mile End or a glass of Riesling. Make them they day before a big barbecue,” says Mr Chapman.

For the meat:

• 250g minced pork and 150g ground fat combined
• Caul fat (ask your butcher for this – enough to encase the number of sausages you are making)

For the paste:

• A large pinch salt
• 5 cloves garlic
• 5/6 large leaves Kaffir lime leaf, finely sliced
• 2 stalks lemongrass, finely sliced (peel off tougher outer layers)
• 3 birds-eye chillies (adjust to preference)
• 10g sliced fresh turmeric
• 8g coriander root
• 30g sliced Thai shallot
• 20g palm sugar
• 50g light soy 
• 20g fermented shrimp paste
• Thai basil for garnish

Grind to rough paste, adding ingredients one by one in the order listed.

Mix together 100g paste with the pork/fat mix (1 part paste to the 4 parts of meat). Make 2cm diameter sausages by rolling the mix in caul fat and set in the fridge to cool for an hour.

Cook over a gentle heat on a barbecue. You're looking for a slower cook over flaking white embers. Slice into bite-size chunks and serve with Thai basil leaves and sliced fresh red bird’s eye chilli.

Choose a higher altitude Riesling. Try anything from the German winemaker Peter Lauer.

Err – an informal way of saying “yeah” in Thai – opened in 2015 and is a relaxed take on the couple’s other Bangkok restaurant Bo.Lan, one of Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants. “For us, [Err] is a celebration of local Thai alcohols and good quality street food… I would actually say that in general drinking isn't an important part of the Thai eating culture, but when one drinks, it's inconceivable to do it without food,” says Mr Jones.

“For me, the spicy, salty and smoky flavours of aharn glam work perfectly with a variety of drinks. Our salad of deep-fried eggs is a great dish that can be enjoyed by itself or enhanced by interesting cocktails and beers.”

• 2 eggs
• Oil for deep frying 

For the dressing:

• 1 tbsp fish sauce
• Juice of 1 lime juice
• ½ tbsp sugar
• ½ tbsp tamarind water
• 1 tsp toasted chilli powder

For the salad:

• 10g finely sliced shallots
• 8g picked coriander
• 8g picked mint
• 10g finely sliced spring onions
• 3g finely sliced bird’s eye chilli
• 1 tsp toasted rice powder

In a wok with hot oil, fry the eggs individually until golden and crispy, but so that the yolks remain runny. Drain and set aside.

Mix all the wet ingredients together with the sugar – the dressing should be equally sweet, sour and salty. Add the chilli powder.

Mix all the salad ingredients together in a bowl, saving some of the toasted rice powder. Add the dressing, toss the eggs in the salad and serve. Garnish with a little toasted rice.

In a glass, muddle 4 lime wedges, 1 shot of Chalong Bay Rum, ½ shot sugar syrup and ½ shot passion fruit juice.

Fill the glass with ice and stir. Spoon over 2 tbsp passion fruit pulp. Garnish with 1 bruised red bird’s eye chilli.