Next year marks 20 years of the British tailoring brand Thom Sweeney. In that time, founders ThomWhiddett and Luke Sweeney have transformed what began as a small, two-man bespoke operation tucked away in Mayfair into a globally recognised name in luxury menswear, one that’s renowned for its modern take on Savile Row suiting. Today, the brand has stores in London, New York, Los Angeles and Miami – and the founders say they’re just getting started.

Before launching their own label, the pair honed their craft at the legendary tailoring house Timothy Everest. There, Whiddett was a cutter, while Sweeney worked the front of house. They used this as a springboard for their own venture. They still speak fondly of their very first customer, whose sizeable opening order helped get their fledgling business off the ground. He remains a loyal client.

Now, having worked side by side for so long, the two have developed an almost telepathic rapport. They finish each other’s sentences and, on the day of our shoot, arrived in coordinated outfits, entirely by coincidence.

Though a global business, Thom Sweeney’s flagship premises can be found in an impressive Georgian-era townhouse, a stone’s throw from Savile Row. The design of the store is very much modern and sleek, reflecting the sense of dress it embodies. That said, as you walk through the space, an understanding of who inspires the Thom Sweeney man becomes clear, with iconic photographs of the likes of Steve McQueen, Cary Grant, Paul Newman and Ralph Lauren lining the walls.

The brand still practices many of the Row’s ancient codes of ethics and craft. Our conversation begins in the basement that houses the cutting-room floor, and where several of the tailors and cutters toil away in the background on bespoke orders. It’s this grounding in bespoke tailoring that has informed the brand’s ready-to-wear collection, all of which is made in Italy, setting it apart from many other tailoring-focused brands.

British tailoring has its roots in military uniform. The jackets tend to feature stronger shoulders, heavier canvassing and a more formal silhouette. Comparatively, Italian tailoring prioritises ease and elegance through lighter fabrics, softer shoulders and a more relaxed fit. And while Thom Sweeney is a self-described modern British tailor, it sits somewhere between the two in execution. The duo favours a British silhouette with Italian-like construction, creating jackets that are classic in nature and comfortable to wear.

Key to this are the proportions, which need to be perfectly balanced throughout. The shoulder line is soft and natural, with light padding that’s considered minimal compared to some of its Savile Row peers, who come from a military tailoring lineage. This creates a masculine look. This is then mirrored through the chest with an equally soft canvassing – a lightweight layer of fabric that sits between the cloth and lining to give shape – resulting in an elegant drape through the body.

The jackets also feature a high armhole, which aids rather than inhibits movement, and a nipped-in waist, which creates a flattering silhouette. It’s this lightness of construction that gives Thom Sweeney tailoring its versatility, allowing it to be worn in a multitude of ways, particularly in more casual settings.

The materials used are key to giving Thom Sweeney its modern sense of classicism. The duo are also passionate about blended fabrics, especially Loro Piana’s Summertime cloth – a mix of wool, silk and linen. First introduced for bespoke clients, it has since become a staple of the ready-to-wear collection. The fabric combines texture and lightness with the practical benefits of wool, whose natural spring lends itself particularly well to travel.

As with many of the finer things in life, the lion’s share of the craft, design and detail is hidden from view – and this is the case with fine ready-to-wear tailoring. The work that goes into a Thom Sweeney suit can be found between the fabric and the lining, which ensures longevity and timeless style.