As far as this column is concerned, I missed the mark a little bit with Christmas last year. While everyone was thinking about roasted meats and cranberry sauce, I was extolling the virtues of broccoli. (“Typical!” some of my friends would say…)

This year, to save you from tears, I’ll keep my broccoli to myself. But this is a column about seasonal ingredients, so therefore it’s only fitting that the December edition should focus on arguably the most notable of December vegetables, sprouts.

I think we all know that sprouts have some great potential on the Christmas Day table. More than just a forgotten, overcooked, only-there-because-tradition-says-so accompaniment to the turkey and stuffing. At the very least, they’re a foil for the bread sauce and gravy. At best they are almost a dish in their own right, doused in butter and studded with bacon lardons and crumbled chestnuts. Sprout tops also worth looking out for at this time of year. They make a great alternative to kale and cavolo nero, with the similar and mineral-rich properties.

Sprout tops are the loosely packed crowns that grow at the top of the sprout stalk. Once upon a time, they would be a pickers perk, but now growers – such as Mr Martin Haines in Gloucestershire, where we source ours – cultivate the plants especially for their leafy greens.

They sauté beautifully and stand up well to rich, umami flavours, while their open texture makes them a good vehicle for sauces and vinaigrettes. Since it’s the festive season, there’s no reason not to get a little decadent with your vegetable dishes… Try elevating even the most humble of greens with something decadent, such as cured fish, charcuterie or even a Christmas cheese, such as in the recipe below.

• 500g sprout tops, trimmed a little, larger crowns sliced in half
• Olive oil
• Sea salt
• Black pepper
• One clove garlic, grated or very finely chopped

For the pickled onion

• 1 red onion
• 200ml white wine vinegar
• 200ml water
• 100g caster sugar
• Pinch fine salt
• A sprig of thyme A bay leaf

For the cheese sauce

• 150g vacherin cheese
• 100ml double cream
• 1/2 tsp Dijon mustard

First, prepare the pickled onions. Peel and slice the onion into halfmoon shapes. In a saucepan, combine the vinegar, water, sugar, salt, thyme and bay. Bring to boil, dissolve the sugar, combine well and remove from the heat. Add the sliced onion and set aside to infuse for at least 10 minutes. They keep for a week in the fridge, so you can do this ahead of time if you like.

Preheat the oven to 220ºC. In a large roasting dish, season the sprout tops with olive oil, salt and pepper. Roast for five minutes. Remove from the oven, add the garlic, stir to combine, then return to the oven for another 5 minutes or until the sprout tops are starting to crisp.

Meanwhile, make the cheese sauce. Add the cheese, cream and mustard to a pan over a very low heat. Whisk to combine. Add a little of the onion pickling liquor to loosen and give acidity. Add a pinch of salt if you like. Set aside in a warm place.

To serve, toss the warm sprouts with the pickled onion and some of the liquor. Check the seasoning, and serve with a ramekin of the cheese sauce on the side for dipping.